Oh god no
Ah I see, thank you! Also, I couldnāt find a caliper to measure the kingpins unfortunatelyā¦
@DCI, you have made a great observation concerning @Matts choice of pivot bushings. I was hoping someone would know more about those bushing than I do. I Think @Matts may have ordered skateboard pivot bushings instead of lonboard bushings.
@Matts, there are actually two really good observations/ideas from @DCI.
Insufficient support from the pivot bushings will cause even the most experienced eskater to encounter dangerous speed wobles even at very low speeds. Virtually every rider in this thread canāt hold a Revel kit in a straight line with the stock bushings because those bushings are geared to extremely light riders. A 12 year old kid might do ok on them.
If you have replaced your stock bushings with some that are significantly smaller in diameter then you have lost alot of stability. @DCI is right, you need some full sized Riptides or venoms. Double barrel Long Board bushings.
@DCI also raises the possibility of loose trucks as a source of speed wobble. Take a look at that also. However, I think DCI may have nailed it with his bushing observation.
What?
I just canāt imagine riding on that lol it looks dangerous
I have them on four of my electric Longboards. They are amazing. Also, you never need to tighten your truck bolts. Low vibration = No Loosening.
In addition to installing them on my Landwheels and Revel Kit, I also have them installed on my boosted Board Plus V2. It completely changes the ride comfort. Not only does it insulate the deck from road vibration, the Gap between the deck and the drive backing plate eliminates all forms of deck slapping and chatter between the deck and the drive.
Also extremely safe at all speeds. I have a highly skilled friend who owns a $5000 Lacroix loanstar. Obviously he can out accelerate me and his theoretical top speed is much higher than a 4WD Revel Kit. In practice though, he canāt match my top speed because my high speed straight line stability is far superior to his. Iām rock solid at 50 kph. Heās struggling to stay out of a wobble.
Thatās when Iām on my 4WD Landwheel/Vanguard. However, I get the exact same stability on my 4WD Revel Kit and my 4WD Ski Suspension Landwheel.
A small 1/2 inch of rubber suspension actually adds a great deal of high speed stability.
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My blue 77a Caguamas have not handled the Revel kit well so far 
. Donāt get me wrong, theyāre really comfy in my opinion and Iām a fan of the wide contact surface, but theyāre getting some cracks and a couple of chips already after having them for only a month and a half (4 of those weeks on an un-electrified longboard). I do like to carve hard, but my roads are fairly smooth with minimal cracks. I guess wheels wear down much faster on electric skateboards, which makes sense. Is it fine to ride wheels with cracks and some chips in the urethane? Also, has anyone ever tried the CloudRide Hurricane 90mm 78a wheels?
Rest easy concerning the strength of the mounting system. Iāve been riding Landwheels and Revel kits since 2017. The mounting system is outrageoulsy strong. Your deck would break long before the bolts would sheer.
If you find your bolts are vibrating loose, then consider a few upgrades:
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X-Brace top brackets (no one seems to know what to call them)
What are those X things called - Order Form on post # 172 - #215 by akhlut - ESK8 Aesthetics - Electric Skateboard Builders Forum | Learn How to Build your own E-board -
More rubber between the drive and the deck
Some of the toughest, most durable wheels that I have encountered are the stock 90mm Revel Kit Urethane wheels. Those things last for ever. Its the same wheel that shipped with the Landwheel L3-x. Three years later on some of the worest roads on the plannet, I donāt have a singe chipped wheel.
The most comfortable vibration absorbing wheels that Iāve ridden on are the Torque board soft compound wheel in 90mm, 100mm and 110mm. Iāve tried all three and my favorite is the 90mm.
97mm torque boad wheels are a hard compound similar to the stock revel kit wheels.
Coincidentally, DIY electric is having a huge sale on all of thier soft compound wheels. The price is almost hald what I paid for mine six months ago.
these are my favorite
I should add that the 74A wheels do have a limited lifespan depending on the rider. Mine are all still in mint condition. However, my friend Rob has worn his out over the last six months. The spoke holes have streached and he has big chunks missing from the edges. To be fair to the wheels, Iāve seen Rob ride and he abuses his wheels by riding over sharp gravel. He also rides at least 40 kilometers per day every day.
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@PsychedEskate
I checked out some pictures and videos of the Caguamas. I think i know why they are chipping. The edges of those wheels are square. Compare them to the edges of your original Revel Kit wheels. You will notice a large radius on the Revel kit wheels.
The radius prevents chunking.
Watch this old Landwheel L3-x video of mine and you will know what to do.
Wear a dust mask and do the work outside. you donāt want to breath in urethane dust.
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This was a very helpful video! Iāll have to do this to my wheels, thank you!
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coincidentally, the second half of the video illustrates working with 3M 77 spray glue.
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Nice! Thanks duder
@Hide:
I sent you a PM about a group buy of the 105mm Discovery edition. Can you take a look and reply please?
Thanks pk
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Hi everyone, Iāve got a 4wd revel kit and love seing this community be so helpful to one another !
Iām having an issue that Iād like to share.
Also waiting on a response for revel support,
anytime Iām on speed mode 4 going 30+mph for a period of more than 2-3 minutes my direct drive one after the other stop responding to the acceleration throttle until the point were just the brakes are working.
If I turn the board and remote on/off the issue is resolved only if I stay on speed mode 3 or lower.
The motor feel warm but not too hot, so Iām just not sure what could be the cause of my misfortune.
Also having irregularities In how fast my batteries drain.
I do regular maintenance once a week with speedcream and clean out my bearings and battery connection as oftener I can to keep the best performance on the Kit, but unfortunately Iām still having issues
Iāve put about 2100miles on the kit that Iāve tracked with the Ride app, the remote not being precise with 120mm wheels and Would like to put many more miles .
Appreciate all the help In advance.
Stay safe & ride safe
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Hey @SpeedyFrenchy
Iāll post about your range complaint first.
Large diameter wheels are hard on range. If you check Ronnieās Review, you will notice he commented on how short the range was with 120mm I-wonders.
Iāve had similar experience myself with 110mm TB wheels. Iāve gotten as little as 8 km of range from my 4WD Kit with the 110 mm wheels. Thatās if Iām accellerating hard and running at top speed between stop signs.
120mm wheels are 30% larger than the standard 90mm wheels. So the motors have to work extremely hard to overcome the 30% gearing disadvantage. Everytime you start from a stop, it is similar to starting out in fourth gear in your car. The extreme effort is not just when starting from a stop. Every time you do some roll-on acceleration and every time you hit an incline and every time you try to overcome wind resistance, there is the same 30% disadvantage. So even if you think you are accelerating gently, the effect on the motors and batteries are eqivilant to sever uphill accelleration with a heavy rider.
The heavy acceleration loads cause deep dipps in battery voltage and thatās what kills your range.
I purchased 90mm, 100mm and 110mm versions of the TB 74A/78A wheels. I started with the 110mm, then quickly downsized to 100 when I realized the range implications. Soon after, I downsized to the 90mm and this is where I am most satisfied.
Iām contempating some 105 Discovery wheels but I suspect for my weight and acceleration habits, I might find myself buying and then shelfing ā due to range.
So, My recommendation for you would be to downsize your wheels to maximize your range. If your roads are truely horrible (as mine are) and if you put a high priority on a smooth, comfortable ride, then you might consider doing something crazy like one of these.
Since you have purchased a 4WD kit, you already have the extra two pairs of trucks and wheels needed to implement double trucks. Your first reaction may be that the vehicles look absurd or that they must weigh a tonne. But if you rode one of them you would understand why.
the most spectacular suspension is the one that takes advantage of a kids down hill ski to add supension to a rigid deck. Its Marvelous.
Now to discuss your other issue:
Iāll tell you what I think it but you should check wiht Revel Kit before you make any alterations to your product.
I suspect the 120mm wheels are trigering the thermostatic safeguard. For many years on the Landwheel L3-x and then for almost a year on the Revel Kit, these thermostat wires were never connected at the factory. On the third or fourth production run of the Revel Kit, they elected to connect the thermostat sensor wires. Iām not sure why thye decided to make the change. I only know about the change because I had a Private thread discussion with a Revel Kit owner who had a similar problem to yours. His situation was a little different. He rode on 100mm wheels in a very hot climate and if I recall correctly, about 20 to 30 minutes into his relativley high speed runs, he would encounter what you encounter.
To solve your problem, I believe there are two options:
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Downsize your wheels, I suspect that 120mm wheels (that also have much higher rolling resistance) will be triggering the thermostatic protection when you run at top speed.
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You could disconnect the two thermostat wires.
If I were you, I would downsize the wheels. Its the simplest modification. However, if you do discuss the issue with Revelboards and you elect to disconnect the thermostat wires, then thatās your decision. The argument for it is that the Revel Kits and its predecessor have run fine for years without the thermostatic protection. The arguement against it would be that 120mm wheels are oversized enought that perhaps thermostatic protection is wise.
Consult with others and consult with Revel boards. Just because Iāve written somethiing here does not mean iām right and it does not mean that there are not other explanations/solutions that are equally good or better.
One thing you could do right away is to downsize to the stock wheels and see if doing so eliminates the āspeed 4/top speedā power down behaviour.
So my 2nd kit arrived today out of nowhere. Out of nowhere meaning I didnāt even get a shipping confirmation that it got sent out, it just arrived at my door lol
Itās been exactly 20 days from order to making it to my door. Probably more like 17 days but I was out of town and came back to a lot of attempted delivery slips in my mailbox
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And my tessy arrived as well! Revel on Loaded Basalt Tesseract:
It sadly doesnāt fit as snuggly as on the Tarab so there is this gap again due to the concaved deck that I didnāt think about:
Is it okay to leave this gap? So far it doesnāt look like itās doing anything. There is also no flopping from my trials.
Now to the deck: The Basalt Tesseract is a crazy fun (and beautiful) deck. The top has this upwards concave that really lock your feet in.
Coming from the Tarab, itās a completely different feeling to ride a shorter and stiffer deck. I mounted the kit on the outer mounts so itās a bit more boaty but itās very nimble and responsive.
I feel much more comfortable going a tad faster than on the tarab that I built specifically for carving (with orange nipples, etc).
I went with this deck because I wanted something to contrast the Tarab. Tarab = very long, flexy, carvey, bouncey, tesseract = stiff, short, nimble. I think I got exactly what I wanted.
Now thinking of going with 85mm Caguamas for this setup to have it a bit smaller and more responsive.