Great ideas! But I don’t want to take apart my kit just yet. I think #5 has potential and could probably be where one can mount or store extra batteries for a long distance ride, maybe with a rubberized case. With #6 combined with #5, made me think about these brackets i saw before, adjustable angles. Not sure if these specific ones would fit though. Here’s the link broken up since I can’t seem to paste links or embed images just yet. gbomblongboards .com/ product-page/ dd-r
With #5, you need to do minor disassembly only:
a) peel back the rubber from the neck
b) Remove the four machine screws that hold the drive assembly to the neck
c) Spin the drive assembly 180 degrees to reverse the steering
d) insert a spacer or several risers to fill in the “D” Shaped Recess in the neck of the backing plate
(note that you need to cut a center groove through the spacer to run the motor wires
e) Using longer truck bolts (and optionally a metal top reinforcing plate) throughbolt the assembly to the drop down deck
f) done
Note that there is no need to perform any re-wiring but the motors will drive in the opposite direction so on a 4WD unit, you would want to sync the front drive first so that the remote defaults to forward.
If you are not starting with a drop down then these brackets would convert most any deck into a drop down.
With # 5, you would have your spare battery platforms and you would not need to extend the wheel base of your system to the outrageous proportions of #6
If you still wanted to do # 6, you could use the same brackets and bolt a flat extension plate to the top.
The only disadvantag of #5 is that it would be awkward to tow behind like a carry on suitcase because the battery would touch the ground. But if you add a dog leash teather that problem is solved.
With #5, you might also want to make a skid plate to protect the batteries from hitting curbs.
With #5 you could give yourself a little more groud clearance if you used an angled spacer to tilt up the nose of the drive.
Or, I suppose the bracket that you linked to would allow you to angle the battery up and away from the curb strikes.
The trick is that you would need to disconnect the motor wires to run them through the center of the bracket. The drive would need to be mounted ontop of the bracket and the trucks below.
But, the result could be pretty cool:
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The plastic around the screws on the right side holding down the top cover of the enclosure is cracked, causing there to have play and a gap. Basically, this made the screws useless. The gap and play may cause battery connection issues, especially with bumps and cracks in road and probably explains why everything works fine when I do an off ground throttle/break test. I contacted Revel and they sorted it all out very quickly within one day! They’re sending me a new top enclosure cover part. Revel is AMAZING! I kind of neglected what @pkasanda said about putting on industrial shock absorbtion pads with the vanguard. I’ve been riding in the city recently where there are very rough patches of bumps and cracks. This ended up biting me in the ass. That’ll be the first thing I do before I ride again.
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Good to know because I just bought a second vanguard – and had not added the anti-vibration pads yet.
Cloudwheels plus Vanguard make for a pretty cool combination basedon my first few rides. The ride is soft enough that I considered continuing without the addition of the vibration pads. However, you remind me that the shape of the vanguard is such that the bamboo is always trying to bend the drive and the drive is always trying to straighten the vanguard. So that means potential damage to the drive and a less flexible deck than I paid for.
Thanks for reminding me.
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How heavy are theses? What’s the Weight in Grams
FYI, wanted to swap from cloud wheels to regular urethane today, I had to use a 3 Jaw wheel puller to remove the cloudwheels from the revel kit adapters, The wheels seem to get really stuck on the last 1/4 inch of the adapter.
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when you put your finger over the motorcans - you might feel which motor it is coming from. Sounds like the bearings are messed up. either that, or the motor windings are loose or magnets misaligned
are you using the newer cloudwheel (clone Abec) adapters?
Did you lubricate both the inner and outer motor bearings (requires wheel removal)?
Did you also lubricate the wheel bearings?
Did you evaluate for worn out wheel bearings?
- Wiggle the wheels to evaluate the wheel bearings for play and damage
- Remove the wheels and adapters to lubricate the inner motor bearing.
- Before you re-install the wheels and adapters, spin the motors to evaluate how quiet the motors spin.
- If the motors are quiet look closer at the wheel bearings. If the inner race is sloppy, replace the wheel bearings.
- Reassemble and test again for sound and play.
Motors and wheel bearings should be lubricated weekly or more frequently. If you run for months on wheel bearings without lubricating them they are probably damaged and need replacement. Another potential source of wheel bearing damage is one or more wheels with spokes that are out of round. If your adapters are heavily worn or if the wheels wobble when installed on the adapters then replace your wheels. PU wheels are not always perfect. If the molds wear out or if the spokes in the mold get bent after thousands of production cycles, then you can get a brand new wheel that has adapter spoke holes that are not in alignment with the axis of the wheel.
After a PU wheel is poured and cures, it gets punched out of the mold. After thousands of those punch cycles, its possible for the spokes to bend out of allignment with the axis of the bearing sockets.
If you find that problem, order new wheels and switch suppliers. Keep in mind that an unpowered wheel can spin true even if the spoke holes are on a different axis. So a supplier may think that their wheels are true if they never test them installed on an electric skateboard. A wheel that wobbles as a powered wheel can still be used as an unpowered wheel.
Hey guys,
So i know which motor it is, its the left motor from my view in vid. I have just luved the motors with speed cream and the sound is still there, and i removed wheel and adapter and i lubed inner and outer bearings. I use boa 90mm wheels, and i dont feel any wobble in the wheel.
The motor sounds like a grinding sound, and the outer bearing seems to be making the sound, but as much as i lube it sound doesnt go away. But from the grounding sound, i suspect it aould be a lose magnet. Has anyone had this sound issue yet?
Can you post a second video with the wheels and adapters removed. Zoom in on the motor that you think is making the noise. Add more light sources and put some white paper behind the motor. See if you can draw a ruler line on the white paper and film with a 1/8 inch space between the top of the motor can and the line . Then turn the paper 90 degrees and film with a 1/8 inch gap between the round end of the motor and the line.
The motor doesnt wobble when it accelerates, it just makes the weird grind noise
I understand that. I’m just suggesting you look extremely closely to evaluate if the motor is running true. I’m not saying I know what the problem is. I don’t. What I do know is that in order to spot a motor wobble you need a high contrast back ground, a horizontal line and a vertical line. If you don’t have those tools, its hard to tell the difference between a motor that is running true and one that might have a bent axle or damaged bearings. A bent axle would produce very slight wobble. Damaged bearings would likely result in some free play.
If you have eliminated all of those possibilities then I wonder if you’ve had some moisture exposure that could have left you with rust inside the motor bearings.
I don’t have any experience with damaged magnets so I have no suggestions to offer on that topic.
For what it’s worth, the noise on your video sounds exactly like dry or damaged bearings. Untrue wheels can bend axles and bent axles can damage bearings. Water exposure or weeks without lubrication can also damage bearings.
How many kilometers on your kit and how frequently have you lubricated the bearings?
I recently went theough a decent sized puddle, and had to take battery out to dry it and the kit. I thought that i had dried it properly, but its possible moisture could have gotten into the motor bearings. Now you point it out, the aound appears to be coming from the outer bearing on motor.
Os there anything i can do to fix it? How can i replace the motor bearing?? I have lubed the bearing recently, but iw there any tricks to know? I usually put about 3 dropa on the baring then spin it to get the lube in bearing
My kit has done about 300km, and usually short trips, havnt don3 many trips from 100 to 25%
I see ur posts alot, so i try charge when i get first vibration warning, although i have gone to 2nd vibration a few times
I have never tried to disassemble a revel kit motor. I don’t know what the bearing specifications are. To exhaust all other possibilities before attempting disassembly or replacement, Here are a few things that you could try. These are guesses and some could have negative consequences.
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This one is pretty safe. three drops of speed cream is alot less than I usually use. Try 10. make sure that the motor is vertical and that you are dropping the oil vertically on to the bearing race. Use the remote to spin the wheels at low speed – not fast enough to spray the oil out of the cavity. Let the oil soak for an hour before you tip the motors horizontal. You might as well do two bearings at a time, then flp the skateboard 180 degrees and do the other sides.
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If that does nto help, try the same thing with synthetic motor oil. I don’t have any reason to believe it will definitely work better than speed cream. However, I use synthetic motor oil sometimes and it seems to work atleast as effectively as speed cream – posssibly better. I use royal purple 5w 30. I’m sure any would give the same result.
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This one is a little risky. Ordinarily, penetrating oil and WD 40 should not be used on bearings and motors because they contain alcohol and solvents. But if your bearings are clogged wiht rust, this may be the only hope to avoid motor replacement or an attempt at bearing replacement. If you skim this thread, you will see one person has posted a video of washing a thin oil through the motors. It coudl be a bad Idea. It could be a great idea for rusty bearings. Or it could do other damage to the motor internals. Opinions vary.
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Here are a few relevant posts on motor bearing cleaning without disassembly…
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This may help for anyone who wants to lubricate the motor bearings without washing road grit into the bearings:
Hey guys! Took a break from esk8 and wanted to chime in. Any cool new recent developments at revel? 