Vx1 is just fine.
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Both if you can please.
Maybe yours. The only one I have used likes to have spasms and little disconnects.
It’s basically an AS-150 to dual XT-60 splitter with capacitors added. 1x each of 1000uF, 100uF, 22uF and 2.2uF capacitors, all high temp 50v caps. I used 8AWG solid copper rods for all connections with copper stranded wire wraps between the joints before soldering together for extra strength… the thing is solid and I have no fear of a joint breaking at all this way.
My 10S battery has a long positive lead and short negative lead. Having used a capacitor bank like this in the past, it completely eliminated overcurrent and overvoltage spikes. I think the last focbox I killed died because of this, so I’m doing this now, since the focbox is still acting funny after repair.
It’s still not done, I checked that there are noshorts, but I still need to insulate between the two sides with some fish paper, apply liquid electrical tape, kapton, heat shrink, etc where necessary to keep it clean and safe before I plug it all in.
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All of that just on the positive lead? Is there ever any need to add caps on the negative? Also, do you use lower rated voltage caps for lower voltage batteries e.g. 8S, or does it stay the same?
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So with carbon wrapping, what is the technique for getting the edge neat and clean?
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I let it get tacky then trim with a razor, anything left over I hit with a dremel tool.
This one still has some drips that I missed and will have to go back over later with a special scraper meant for the edge of skateboards though
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At what point do you start needing this? Also why the different cap sizes?
The caps are all wired in to both the main positive and main negative leads. The caps are polarized, so the caps - connects directly to main - as close to the ESC as possible, and same with cap + directly to battery +.
Really the higher voltage the cap is rated for the better. I am a bit iffy using only 50v caps on this since voltage spikes probably won’t be good for them. On my other cap bank I used 100v rated caps… it really boils down to tradeoffs between price, availability, capacitance and size. I’d go 100v rated all the time, but these were available locally and I didn’t want to wait for digikey.
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I guess if you get overcurrent and overvoltage faults? That’s why I’m using them… presumably because my battery wires are so long and not strapped next to each other.
From what little I know, inductive magnetic fields are created from current flowing. When battery wires are pressed up against each other, the fields created from current flowing in opposite directions next to each other cancel each other out.
Otherwise the current flowing through each wire creates and collapses magnetic fields as current fluctuates without being cancelled out, and as this happens you get spikes, overcurrent and overvoltage errors.
Every cap has an internal resistance. Higher capacitance caps tend to have higher IR while lower capacitance caps have lower IR. Basically lower IR caps can smooth out the super quick, small, high frequency fluctuations while higher IR caps are good for smoothing out the lower frequency fluctuations/ big spikes. (Low IR/low capacity = absorb a little bit really fast and higher IR/higher capacity = more energy they can absorb and release slower).
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How long are your wires and how much current are you running?
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They are 8 guage wires carrying up to 160A in 3-4 second bursts on acceleration. One is 18" and the other is 14".
Damn that’s beefy…if I’m only pulling 50a tops is it okay to have a 8" and 24" wire?
The shorter, closer, and as even length the battery wires are as possible, the better. Otherwise, at some point you can only know what you got is an issue when you start having issues, so try and see 
. I can’t say for sure but at 50 amps it’s probably fine.
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I’d rather not have long wires but I’m hoping to make a modular pack based on @glyphiks packs so there is always one long side
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Not necessarily, you can make the battery in a U shape to eliminate the one long wire. I’ll be doing the next one like that
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But I guess it would be like a puzzle to put together since every pack is a different shape? Or a large wire harness would work
P.S. take some pics and post them for me when you start? 
I’m thinking 5 2s3p P42A packs and a pair of neoBoxes, shouldn’t be a hard squeeze but I’ve had bad luck with enclosures
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Will definitely take pics mate 
Nearly every pack is different for one reason or another depending on where it needs to fit and what it needs to work with.
It’s very helpful to draw it out first and play with different configurations that way.
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I’ve been using Blender to block out most of my batteries, its been working pretty well so far. Definitely helps with ordering custom batteries when you have pictures of how you want it built on hand
And thank you 
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