šŸ–¼ Reply to ā€œPictures and nothing elseā€ thread 2024

Affordable isn’t the best, it’s about $300 when in a big group buy. Search up guli fast charger. Also does a narrow band of voltages. The trade off triangle here is: voltage range, size, amperage. Pick two, Price is on another page :rofl:

The roger chargers and their many variations based off of the delta ESR-48/56A C psu seems to be the closest i have found to an affordable charger that covers everything 0-140vdc. Seen some poorly executed ones for sub $100 on aliexpress and some really nice ones for $180. Imho the double digital display ones are better than the small lcd screen versions - simplicity is better. BUT IT IS NOT A SMART CHARGER. It is a fast charger and needs attention. Voltage never cuts off at 100% soc and so it trickles a small but not insignificant amount of amperage to the battery at 100% soc and needs to be manually disconnected. All of them have this same issue and need to be attended during charging. This is the one i have of that variety but i think the single output Vs the 4 presets versions are both cheaper and better.

18s6p p45b 60a jlb bms (discharge bypass obv) the guts and connections are setup for 56a charging but my bms is kinda packed in a little too tight so my temps creep up at 30a to just below the cutoff almost exactly when the charge hits cv stage. I think i could find a way to expose the bms heat sink to free air but it seems like diminishing returns here. Charge stops are usually after a lot of hard riding and ill be chilling for 20-30 min minimum so why cut it all open and rework it when this already works well enough.

Maybe i would notice but only i would. It gets about 45ish miles of range Which will comfortably get me around the entire puget sound area between class 2 ev chargers

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This build is specifically to keep up on euc group rides and also charge stop qol improvement. I want to be able to do a 10min slam charge when im tired from an all day ride so i dont have to go the last little uphill 2miles at 10mph and also be stable for bursts at 40mph and not be the last one charging every DAM TIME :grin::grin::grin::grin:

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There’s a guy in DC advertising a Huawei charger (full size) that’ll do 40-180v up to 15a. It’s got the touchscreen/app, so it can be configured to fully shut off charging current when the desired voltage is reached.

He’s asking $250, and I can put folks in touch if interested. That’s the best set of features and value I’ve seen on the market, just not as many amps as competitors.

Second best imo is the one I have from ningning:

Or the Delta one with presets if you want those, but it’s significantly louder, e.g. I can hear it over the conversations in a busy restaurant loud.

Known as ningning on telegram. Very helpful and reliable to buy from. i have the older model of the second one you linked it is one of the roger charger clones/improvements. The first one looks interesting and though I don’t doubt it will clamp the amperage down at 100% soc i don’t think it will turn off the voltage as the modifications made to this power supply are not very significant.

Mostly it is just removing the over and under voltage protection circuit fets then connecting the display of choice to display the outputs. amperage output is calibrated by replacing the calibration resistor with a rheostat to force the output amperage to provide the cc aspect - the original circuiting just attempts to provide the max amps set by the rheostat. Then the voltage calibration is set by rheostat which is also replacing the original single value resistor that sets the output voltage. The original rectifier/psu just tries to provide the output amperage at the output voltage you set, the voltage drops to the current battery voltage when connected and it dumps as much amperage as it can within the set point you give it. Then once the voltage reaches its maximum set point, the amperage drops off because the battery will only accept so much current without the voltage going up and it sort of self regulates.

I’ve charged my battery manually this way when my display screen was on the fritz and showing non actual values with a multimeter and amp clamp. I could be wrong and they could have added additional components to actually stop the charger at its set points but i don’t see how without either changing base model rectifiers or increasing the dimensions - there is no wasted space in these things.

I have both the roger (delta based) charger and the huawa 4850 based chargers and neither have any means of completely stopping the charge, just clamps it down to milliamps and will trickle amps to the battery at full voltage.

These chargers, guli and ningning are produced by the same remanufacturer if that’s a real word from the used base model PSUs then rebranded or manufactured with branding.

They are great but they are not smart and the startup process and calibration process needs to be followed or it will eat your battery. All of the protection, and there are a lot of really clever passive protection circuits, are for the charger and do not provide any protection to the battery. Beware

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The first link from ningning will not turn off the voltage, correct. That’s my main gripe with these chargers.

Even your Guli with the touch screen? In my local community there are a few people with touchscreen Roger and Ningning chargers that have an option on the screen to auto shutoff after a number of minutes of the battery being full. Are you saying yours doesn’t have this function, or that it doesn’t actually shut off voltage and still allows a few mA to trickle?

Edit: excerpt from ningning’s site:

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I have this one.

1: @Pecos is correct. The charger continues charging (very slowly) even at 100% SOC.

2: power-size ratio is pretty damn impressive. Around 2kw for a similar volume to skp/radium chargers (slightly longer and wider but about half the height)

3: you should know what you’re doing before you buy one. I plugged in a battery with reversed polarity on the adapter a while back (dumb move I’m aware) and since then I’ve been working with ningning to get it working again, I’ve had to replace 2 fuses, the screen, a few wires, a temp sensor (also kinda my fault tbh), and now a resistor on the output.
Hopefully after I replace that resistor it will work again but it’s been out of commission for several months and I’ve needed to do quite a bit of research just to figure out why I’m replacing the things I’m replacing.

I wouldn’t recommend it if you’re looking for something to plug in and not think about

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I tested one of the older 4850 models, ill test this one and report back - I just assumed it was the same but i would be pleasantly surprised if it does fully shut down the output. Ive spent less time inside the huawa based chargers so there may bae a way for it to shut down both voltage and amperage im just not aware of. Im learning as i go here :rofl: im an electrician not an ee

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Seems like pidzoom is a good value then.

This one is the exact same as the Huawei one from Ningning I linked above. Ningning told me he supplies them. It says in the description something about having voltage presets, but it doesn’t, just a different skin and different knobs for adjustment that Ningning says damage the charger more easily if it’s dropped.

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This one is less than most…

Wonder what it’s missing…
Or why?

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It’s super loud and will not terminate a charge like others have said, but other than that it’s solid.

If you don’t care about the noise and don’t charge unattended, it’s definitely the cheapest option. I also like that it has 4 presets if you have PEVs at different voltages.

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Is this Pidzoom one ok?

Does it terminate the charge?

I think I would want that for sure.

Or could I buy this and hook it up to my highest voltage charger and limit the voltage with it?

None of them will terminate the charge except for maybe the ones with the touchscreen, let Chris test first to find out though.

The only touchscreen one with a wide enough voltage range for both esk8 and EUC is the one being advertised in DC, otherwise Guli has options for smaller voltage ranges that include most esk8s.

Any of them can be used in combination with the charger enhancer to terminate the charge, but that’s just a monitor and on/off switch, it won’t take a higher voltage and buck it down to something appropriate for a specific pack.

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I really appreciate your help. Many nuances to these…

I always want one before we go on a trip… And I never buy one because the 300 Bucks seems steep when I can fill a bag with chargers…

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Definitely a ton of nuances. These aren’t for the beginner or faint of heart. You have to be super vigilant about having the correct settings, and even brand new out of the box, I’ve seen mine do weird enough stuff that I don’t charge unattended with it, especially near full.

Your bag of chargers is definitely the more set and forget, worry free option if you don’t need the faster charging these provide. Like Chris, I only use mine to keep up on EUC rides and other super long range days.

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Have you ridden the Lorentz?

Is it any good from a diy guy perspective?

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Idk, scuba stu here got it and thinks the channel trucks arnt carvie enough. He’s only been messing around with it since December so no a lot of miles on it yet

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@rafaelinmissouri I have this exact model. First of all, not a touchscreen! Anywho, it’s a simple machine, let me explain.

Voltage: you set the maximum voltage. So if you had a 12S charger for example and set the maximum voltage to 10S, you could use it to charge a 10S device. Now the caveat is that it cuts the charging current immediately as soon as the threshold is hit (no constant voltage mode). You may think that’s good but it’s not if you want to top off the device you’re charging. You know how the battery voltage reads higher by a few tenths of a volt when you’re actively charging? Kinda like the opposite of voltage sag when you’re discharging? So you want the charger to kinda ā€œovershootā€ the target voltage by a small bit and shove in the last bit of charge for the battery to get to truly 100% before cutting off. But again this device just cuts it all off without that trickle-in behavior so the final voltage is 0.1-0.2V below your target.

Current: what you set is just the maximum allowed current.You don’t actually have any control over the charging amps, you’re at mercy of the charger’s amperage specs. It just cuts off if there is amperage spike above the threshold for some reason.

I use this thing to store my boards at 70-80% and top it off just before I ride if I need to.

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What kind of range of voltage are you looking for?

I have one but I need to lookup the voltage range. You also have to use tiny dials. But it’s cheap.

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