This makes sense.
@Ean.esk8 Did you have -/+ rake listed on triplelinks possible angles at some point?
Feel like Iām taking crazy pills, this construction worker didnāt come to this conclusion myself.
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is gooddeck
i like
i add slider tail soon ā¢
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@PedroMcJimenez You arenāt taking crazy pills. This diagram is on the website.
Eg 14/-10 First number is with negative rake link position and second number is positive rake link position.
He goes over them in the assembly tutorial video starting at 5:07
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If Ean is calling it negative and positive rake position for links, that is an unfortunate choice of words because you are not changing the rake at all by moving the links above or below the axle.
You can test this for yourself. A positive take truck with no bushings will be most stable falling to one side or another. A negative rake truck will be most stable in the center with the axle flat.
A zero take 3 link truck will stay at whatever angle you put it at. Neither falling to one side, nor falling back to evenly flat hanger.
Flip the board over and take the bushings out. Keep the wheels on. Youāll see what I mean. The rake behavior wonāt change.
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I agree. When I was assembling them for the first time, I was wondering how the link position caused any offset from the axle. I just assumed I must be missing something since itās my first time using this sort of truck. Thanks for the explanation.
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Full rebuild, switching from trampa trucks to the new @Boardnamics channel trucks. Also, gonna put on some more aggressive tread 9.5in tires
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It would depend on how you understand the rake, the diagram was based on rod angle. You kind right you understand it as rake doesnāt change. But if you understand it like that, the actual angle of the angle bracket will be 5 degree more.
Mouting the rods in top/ underneath could bring some minimal difference, due the turning force is passing by the rod. For my experience mouting it on 40 degree, rods on top will lean more natural. underneath feels little bit sharp.
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Looks like a realy cute short board, mind sharing more details ?
What Trucks are those ? Itās unloaded motors ?
Someday I need to make a short build, Iām sure itās perfect for commuting, just need to get used to the higher platform and shorter stance
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yup, rims/tires/pulleys 3d printed 
itās just part of the procedure to destroy them in development phase to test durability of the design 
crack, print new ones. crack, print new ones, right? 
lotsa waste HAHA
if printingāem hollow is for saving filament just printāem solid and youāll save waaay more in the long run 
pack the pulley in salt powder and fire up the oven. fused layers increase mechanical strength by 50% 
cracking problem solved
tutorial:
in few years when teeth wear out put it in a silicone mold, sprinkle some filament and watch it all melt into a brand new part filament waste problem solved
tutorial:
Veeery handy for tires after lotsa powerslides/donuts/burnouts 
a set of printed tires uses 2 spools every 6 months but but remelting them only takes a little to replace what got worn out HAHA
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If youāre using that stuff in a board it better be damn goodā¦oh, waitā¦
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The thumbs up is really telling of the internal QC
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Do you have a thread about your wheels somewhere? they look really cool. I was always wondering about actual real world long term performance of 3d printed wheels.
Itās mostly out of curiosity. If I print them solid straight away Iāll never know with how few perimeters I can get away with. Also weight saving. The one that cracked was only 5 walls, plus the bottom was way too thin, and it lasted exactly a month.
Oh cool, might try that someday. Does the part shrink a bit? Is it a problem for pulleys, or does the belt still fits just fine after baking?
That sounds really cool, not to mention saving 100s of hours of printing time.
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As long as the axle is in-line with the center bushing/spherical joint, its zero rake.
So looking at this diagram.
The black line of the pivot axis is a line defined by the pivot points, which on an RKP is the bushing seat, and the pivot cup.
On a 3 link truck, the main joint is one of the pivot points. And because the axle travels straight through it, the wheels will always be in-line.
You can offset the axle on a 3 link to gain positive/negative rake, but thatās going to involve a standoff, like this.
Here the axle is on the roadside of the pivot axis, which is positive rake.
Iāll do a little spiel on rake too I guess.
So rake is connected with trail, but it is separate.
The easiest way to simplify what rake is doing is to dilute it down to a raising or lowering center of gravity. Thereās other attributes, but this one thing covers most of what contributes to the feel and preference of pos/neg rake.
The axle instead of being center, move in a circle around the pivot axis.
Which means as it rotates, the axle is moving up and down slightly, like the hands on a clock as they move around. Noon is higher than 6:00.
Positive rake makes the deck divey. It readily accepts energy to push deeper into turns, but it is stable up top where weight doesnāt have a lot of leverage.
Negative rake is the opposite. It saps energy the deeper into turns you go.
You could also think about it like board height. Just like for the truck thereās a pivot axis, the deck has a roll axis. Its doing similar things between both. With your deck you have topmount leverage if you have tall trucks, and if you do a crazy double drop you can get hammocking.
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yup, itās not just about the final destinationā¦ the trip getting there is half the adventure HAHA exploring and learning
#1 thing affecting strength is line thickness:
a chain is only as strong as weekest link. after the 7 perimeters one finishes printing slap a 1mm nozzle on that baby and crank layer height up to 0.8mm and line width to 1mm 
Huuuge strength difference
#2 is infill:
youāre going from triangles to honeycomb good move. try gyroid. disperses shock in all direction, since you mentioned offroading. handy when inevitably hitting stones
end of day gotta replace those sliced beltsā¦ but hey, at least pulleys survive HAHA
I wish 
thereās only a handfull of people 3d printing wheels around hereā¦ weāre a rare breed 
but hey, check 
Maxās thread for ideas.
yeah but tenths of a millimeter difference is acceptable tolerance. besides, motor mounts have adjustments.
strength-wise:
testing against commercial ones I ripped urethane of āall-terrainā cloudwheels to the core in 2 hours by hitting curbs/walls/potholes/speed bumps/manholes/drainages/stones/etc
same punishment on offroad 3d printed wheels took 5 days to even crack one rim:
went home, increased rim thickness. presto! never cracked again. lesson learned 
temperature-wise:
3d printed thermoplastic polyurethane/elastometer meltsā¦ unlike commercial thermoset urethane, which just burns. so heat dissipation is important. burnouts melt them in 30sec:
vid is of street wheels but offroad ones are same. remember keep powerslides/burnouts short.
for doing donuts better less than 3 perimeters otherwise heat/centrifuge force starts separating perimeter layers till it reaches the infill.
this is 10 perimeters after 2 months of donuts:
range-wise:
forget it 
deep groove offroad treaded tires eat the range by half compared to street wheelsā¦ nuff said
speed-wise:
know how iwonder slaps inside the box in big letters: ādo not exceed 40km/hā (25mph)?
For high speed better street wheels. that said, 20min ago just did over 50km/h (31mph) down the highway on printed offroads just fine and been doing it daily for months now.
Lemme finish designing/testing some street wheels better suited for 60-70km/h (37-44mph)
next month can start contributing my 2 cents on the subject
keep us updated on yours
cheers 
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Absolutely killer shade of orange!
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Bless up with the link to those lights 
love the graphics btw
Thanks! They are about 2k lumen. I epoxied the rear one in red to make a matching rear light.
Here is a link for ya.
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Why would they have ads for Electrify Expo on the page that sells dino juice boards? Do they not understand what this is all about?
Apparently they missed the E in Esk8con as well.
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