I might think of it as I reach for the snips but Iāll forget about it when I just drop in a new part.
Iām all for serviceability, but not down to every minute component. some things are more sensible to replace than to try to āfixā. IMO plugs fall in that designation.
All of this sounds like as coming from somebody who has never needed to remove siliconed in components. And thatās fine. But you will remember this day the first time that you do need to remove siliconed in components.
oh I have. I used to work on movie lighting, some light bars from Avatar 2 were left underwater by James Cameron for like 8 months and we had to dig out all the silicone and rebuild the panels. took 2-3 days per panel.
itās a lot of work, sure. but if you keep silicone to discrete components itās much easier to cut it away and just replace what broke instead of having to dismantle multiple aspects to get at what you need.
Unless Iām building an emtb, I build for splash proof not water proof. If I had to ride to work everyday maybe itād be different, but I canāt carry a truck load of tools and donāt enjoy riding in the rain.
My splash proof did survive some pretty wet early spring riding with @poastoast , so thats good enough for me.
this is an important point on the side of complete waterproofing. some of us use an esk8 as a primary vehicle. bad or lack of waterproofing has cost me 2 VESCs, a remote receiver, 2 antispark switches and one remote battery.
I think I see what is going on. The front of some of the helmets show a lighting reflection, fill flash maybe. Definitely a weird look to a lot of the shots.
I drill out the holes juuuuust large enough to get the vesc side mr60 fitted onto the enclosure. Similarly, run all sensors into a single slightly oversized hole. Small bit of hot glue for temporary hold. Then a bit of epoxy on each side for a more serious hold(only on the outside for the sensors so I can pop it out to change drivetrains). Probably never disassembling one of my electric sleds without it being a repair again. No reason. Once the esc and battery are set in it, it makes sense to leave them there, but Iād rather be able to easily swap drives around.
Oh and I add a teeny tiny drop of e6000 to each side wall when I connect the mr60ās. Some people zip tie those but that doesnāt work for my route. @ShutterShock damn son you can print blue copper???
I will skip all phase plugs next tlme and just slap em togerher with solder.
Will also follow @glyphiks advice and run them fuckers tight underneath the lid of ma enclosure.
Should fix my last light headaches