šŸ–¼ Reply to ā€œPictures and nothing elseā€ thread 2023

But to get to the top you start at the bottom right?

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DoIt

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I want to be more consistent with my welds, also Iā€™m working on the series connection wires. I find it hard to tin these. I always end up with stiff wires from all of the solder thatā€™s been pulled in. Limiting how much of the wire is stripped seems to help a lot.

crank your iron up as hot as it will go for tinning, try to do it as fast as possible with lots of solder at once (thicker dia. solder is good for this) and stop feeding solder into the wire as soon as itā€™s tinned enough. it also helps to do it with the wire tip pointing down so gravity doesnā€™t pull solder in.

if you keep getting stiff wires, you can always shape them as they cool with pliers or gloves into the shape your pack needs but that could look pretty bad.

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Theyā€™re all just posers :sob::sob:.

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iā€™m not quite sure advising him to tin wires at his irons hottest temperature to PREVENT stiff wires is the best advice here.

this video might help:

I personally donā€™t add solder while melting joints together, but regardless I would recommend soldering at 360c and using a 3mm bevel tip. practice tinning your wire, ensuring to soak just enough solder into the exposed area of the wire, then melting it to your nickels solder pool ensuring to not add extra heat after the the joint has melted together fully.

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Thx, this helps.

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@drone001 please dont do this. Your wires need to remain flexible otherwise you are losing the benefit of using wire at all.

The rest of his advise is decent. Just make sure you are using a powerful iron at high temp, with good solder and plenty of flux. Working quickly is your friend when trying to prevent solder wicking.

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Thx, my iron just died on meā€¦itā€™s the handle assembly on the KSGER T-12. I repaired it once beforeā€¦itā€™s toast this time. Ali says Nov 9 for the replacementā€¦I canā€™t wait that long. Any idea on a replacement iron? something I wonā€™t have to replace in 6 months.

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Good parts and composition man, does it move as expected?

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I have been loving my Pinecil.

Only drawback is that you need to bring your own 21V/3A DC power supply. I use my adjustable lab PSU. You could use something like this:

You can also power the Pinecil off any 60W USB-C PD power supply. So you could get something like this:

And an appropriately rated USB-C to USB-C cable.

I use my Pinecil with the D24 tip, because itā€™s got better thermal mass and more surface area for heat transfer than the stock cone tip:

For really large stuff, I use this iron:

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Shoes and hand protection!?!
I feel like I donā€™t even know you any more dudeā€¦

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You really canā€™t go wrong with a TS100.

Pretty sure this forum has an entire thread dedicated to it. Itā€™s like the best iron Iā€™ve ever used.

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quite

very torquey, iā€™ll like the extra efficiency while going up hills back homeā€¦ top speed was reduced to 35 tho, sadge :face_with_peeking_eye:

not loud enough, need more RAWWWWWWWW

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Thx, I have two dead TS100s. I donā€™t solder a lot I Donā€™t understand why these things keep dying on me. The TS100s and now the KSGER.

Thx, Does the PINECIL use the same tips as the TS100ā€¦they look similar. I have a ton of tips for the TS100.

Saturdayā€™s for the boys at the beer garden

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Like what you did here, what did you put over those stickers?

Yep!

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Viscous Griptape, Clear :+1:

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