Different strokes for different folks. Its easier to just not ride in the wet. /unpopularopinion
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This was 400mm Body, 20mm thick, new one is 30mm
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In raw condition 600ā¬ pair for export
from moon light obviously. 
idk how they got those shots at maryhill that whole album looks surreal/shopped.
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I think I see what is going on. The front of some of the helmets show a lighting reflection, fill flash maybe. Definitely a weird look to a lot of the shots.
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thatās it Iām going back to thanes. pneumies are nice and all, but thanesā¦
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At least 400a per side!
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I drill out the holes juuuuust large enough to get the vesc side mr60 fitted onto the enclosure. Similarly, run all sensors into a single slightly oversized hole. Small bit of hot glue for temporary hold. Then a bit of epoxy on each side for a more serious hold(only on the outside for the sensors so I can pop it out to change drivetrains). Probably never disassembling one of my electric sleds without it being a repair again. No reason. Once the esc and battery are set in it, it makes sense to leave them there, but Iād rather be able to easily swap drives around.
Oh and I add a teeny tiny drop of e6000 to each side wall when I connect the mr60ās. Some people zip tie those but that doesnāt work for my route.
@ShutterShock damn son you can print blue copper???
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I will skip all phase plugs next tlme and just slap em togerher with solder.
Will also follow @glyphiks advice and run them fuckers tight underneath the lid of ma enclosure.
Should fix my last light headaches
This has been, for me, very bad for maintenance.
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What happened?
Iāve done this, I do not recommend it at all. makes remofing the drive truck a real pain in the ass, and makes working in the enclosure an extra pain.
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Removing? I would just cut them off again 
if youāre willing to cut them and re-solder any time you do work on the board, thatās your decision.
personally, I donāt like the idea of adding a whole soldering kit to my ride toolkit. itās extra and shouldnāt be needed.
if you have any concerns about maintenance whatsoever, permanent connections arenāt a good idea. you want as much to be able to be manipulated without tools as possible.
my ride toolkit for a thane board is literally just a bike multitool and a skate tool because all I need are a couple sizes of hex and a couple sockets to dismantle the entire board. this way I can open things up, unplug things, swap connectors and whatever all without needing a soldering kit or multimeter.
plus, if you end up needing to do a lot of electrical maintenance youāll spend more in solder than a high end set of plugs would ever cost.
Lol.
My goal is build and forget.
Thatās also my goal, reliability is design goal #1. So the things I suggest are ALWAYS going to be with that in mind.
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Generally my build goals in order of importance:
- Reliability
- Repairability/Upgrade-ability
- Durability
@ShutterShock just curious, why a 3D printed enclosure for the Maker X? I have the DV6 pro and am almost done with my enclosure. Does protecting it within the enclosure offer some value?
The thing u see there is just a Stormcore 3D printed for comparison of size, and mounting in the real enclosure that Iām designing / working on
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I used 5mm bullets with 3:1 heat shrink with glue inside on each phase wire. Pretty bombproof, nothing to wrong, and also not a huge pain in the ass if I need to disconnect a motor for some reason.