🖼 Reply to “Pictures and nothing else” thread_2020_summer

[worldismine772]

i would never call Artem’s work “good enough”, he is an artist

but I’m not going to respond about battery concerns, it’s above me and if Artem says it is good, it is good

[Battery_Mooch]

@Skyart

Be nice to me! tottaly fine to do this IMO unless there is some ungodly things going on inside the enclosure

I completely agree. I was only referring to what others would say. No scolding from me.

@b264

If the balance leads are on top without being squeezed it shouldn’t be an issue, but it’s still unnecessary risk. If they’re squeezed in any way I’d definitely be concerned, especially if it was plastic insulation.

While I consider crossed balancing leads with additional insulation between them to be a “best practice” I think the risk of silicone-insulated crossed leads being messed up while parallel leads not being damaged in the same situation to be unlikely.

Plastic-insulated leads however should never be crossed over though, IMO. They melt verrry easily.

[Kai]

i agree 100%, hell, im typing this with my computer on one of his builds. but if it works perfectly for the use case, i dont think its a real problem, just something that nitpickers will nitpick.

[Taraskasyanyuk]

@Kai

nitpickers will nitpick.

Amen, I can’t imagine something happening… Unless you’re throwing your board off a damn cliff consistently.

[BillGordon]

Cut some fishpaper squares and tape them between. Easy peasy butt acne squeezie.

[rusins]

Pictures and Nothing Else!

[IMG_5166] [IMG_5167]

Damn, I love where you placed the charge port and power button. Wish I had such a shallow button when I built my friend’s Haya, lol

[Takachi14]

Martymane the fact that u spent 700$ on a bio v2 deck and enclosure combo just to put dkp belts on it genuinely upsets me

[tech.shit]

I feel that too, but IMO the best choice of parts to put on that deck and enclosure is what BioBoards already sells stock so… Idk it’s something different

[glyphiks]

At least he doesn’t need risers with the dkps

[Takachi14]

XD, ur know ur not wrong

[Sk8tedad]

Um I won’t nit pick a few spots on my deck, (small girl voice is it mine? I hope it’s mine!squeee) dam it I have nothing to do I sleep 3 hours a nite the suspense is killing me, I ride at nite and don’t look down, if I do I have so much light the glass fri will blind me anyway.

Sorry I’ll go back to quietly reading, I have cabin fever&dog now hates me because I don’t walk her .

Also if I don’t stop postin nonesk8 Pisces to the picture only thread I expect torches and pitchforks at my door soon

[sleepless]

Pictures and Nothing Else!

[PXL_20220114_165714143.MP] [PXL_20220116_182908542] [PXL_20220116_182915787] [PXL_20220117_212203488] [PXL_20220129_022426939.MP] [PXL_20220129_191305193] [PXL_20220202_022900402] [PXL_20220203_180910400] [PXL_20220203_180926112.MP]

That is a killer finish! Nice work.
What did you end up using to smooth/fill the layer lines?

Maybe it’s the lighting, but that puck looks like something straight out the factory

[DeadLightning]

Most important thing is prep beforehand and many thin coats. The more sanding you do up front the less you will have to do later.

Basically the whole process went like this:

1. Fill bottom support interface with black nail polish
2. Sand everything to the best of my abilities using ~150 grit
3. Coat with filler primer, many coats until all gouges/imperfections are filled (you can sand between coats here)
4. Sand again using finer and finer grit (I went 200, 500, steel wool)
5. Important if any 3D print is still showing put more coats of primer until you can’t see any plastic. Otherwise you will get different colors showing through the paint. (Sand lightly after doing this step)
6. Spray with color of choice (Krylon satin florescent pink and satin black for me)
7. Spray with enamel to protect coats (Krylon satin clear)
8. Don’t fucking touch it for like 2 days or you will put fingerprints on it and have to put another coat.
9. Done!

There are some things I would have changed, mostly just masking off the inside of the button holes so that I didn’t have to sand them after the fact and then chip off some of the paint on accident…

It was super rewarding seeing a prototype-looking 3D print become something that looks like it was injection molded though!

[rusins]

Pictures and Nothing Else!

[20220204_174315]

What’s that carabiner in the back for?
Also 1 motor 2WD – nice! Can you do kickturns though?

[Linesflag]

That’s a carrying strap. Kickturns are easy, just don’t lift the nose too high or the mounts will scrape.

[rusins]

The locked together wheels don’t bother you? Nice!

[Linesflag]

Yeah well small ones are no problem, big ones need much more force. Also you need to be driving, doing them while standing still is pretty much impossible.

[chr1spe]

I really like that board, but I have to say the kicktail that you can’t use because of the rear-mounted motors aggravates me a bit lol. I’m doing my first build now and I’m having to go to great lengths to do a front mount on a still somewhat short kicktail, but I’m definitely not compromising on that. I think I’ve figured everything out so that I’ll have like 3mm of clearance between the motor and my enclosure no matter what lol.

[b264]

fighting the good fight you are

[chr1spe]

Yeah, there has been some poor planning though. I saw someone say something about idlers being great, but in retrospect, a mount with idlers definitely was a poor choice for trying to fit on a kicktail. Also my previous prebuilt had a thick enclosure which I bashed pretty good a few times so I wanted something thin. Now I realize thick is kind of a necessity for an actually short kicktail with a front mount belt drive. We’ll see how it works out when it’s together in a week or two though.