šŸ–¼ Reply to ā€œPictures and nothing elseā€ thread_2020_summer

So this is a 2s4p config of 6s1p packs to make a single 12s4p that splits into 2 escs?

Itā€™s beautifulā€¦

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Stop biting your nails xD

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What do you mean by failed successfully? How is it? Iā€™m about to print the same thing for the same remote except with the bottom part modified to hold a second tiny accessory remote on top.

I gathered from that, that the material was not malleable enough and resulted in a structural failure upon installation.

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there are a few things I can think that you can try.
slow the print down. Iā€™ve noticed that with tpu if you print to fast then it can result in the material being pulled inward slightly with messes up the inside dimensions.
try printed the remote larger then 100% like 101% or 102% your printer might just have different tolerances than mine.
try setting the seam to random. the case does fit tight but Iā€™ve never had one of my cases even the prototype ones just pop in one area like that. the seam is a weak point but if you set it to random then you wont have all that stress on one area.

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Notice it busted off their tungsten carbide nozzle when it exploded. Those are expensive.

They also need to change their orifice because itā€™s worn out badly.

Also they appear to maybe have turned off the abrasive flow and entered the wheel with pure water for some reason. You can tell because it didnā€™t leave abrasives embedded in the tail of the deck except for around the initial plunge hole.

Also I am pretty sure the deck breakage is from wheel debris and not the water blast.

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Yeah they were trying to speed the wheel up without cutting it

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I would have used a water-only 0.005" (125Ī¼m) orifice for that with no nozzle or abrasive

Wheel debris, or, perhaps the water weaponized the paint.
I wanna see this done to larger wheels. Think we could pop a tb110??

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LoL whatā€™s the budget? I could likely make that happenā€¦

Companies donā€™t like risking their expensive equipment though

What is that enclosure :heart_eyes:

Itā€™s diy :wink:

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Could you diy once more :joy: but make money this time :joy:

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@Kutvis

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Oh that wasnā€™t it. I printed it in PLA, and it couldnā€™t slide in because thereā€™s zero flex at the opening (hence the first PLA != TPU comment). So I cut the back open with a hacksaw so it would slide in.

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As long as you print in TPU, itā€™s probably fine. I printed mine out of PLA, and the entrance is a little too small to slide in, so I had to cut a slot in the back so it could flex over the remote. Still works for me, just thereā€™s a seam at the back now.

Yeah you shouldnā€™t print a case in PLA ot has no protection at all. If you hit it it will just shatter.
TPU cases are almost indestructible.

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Iā€™ve had pretty good luck with PLA and impacts normally (use it for piston and plunger assemblies holding and impacting at 18kg+). Plus Iā€™m using it more for scratch protection than any impacts, so itā€™s fine in my case. I just forgot about the stretching that TPU can do. I just never set my printer up to print anything other than PLA since thatā€™s all I have.

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ItĀ“s very exclusive :b but if would make you one are you planning on using it with battery spacers or just the enclosure.

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Mbs pattern

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