After snowboarding, I refer to this as a footgasm
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i think those were tramp bindings
guess that’s one thing they’re good for
drowning 
too bad i sold mine, will drown my F5s in the environment they stem from: sno
no wait, those aren’t tramp either… are those F4??
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Fair weather boarders
The best fun, and a work out!
@poastoast F4’ but these suck for electric. Have some F5 to swap over to on this
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Bro, it looks like you rode through the pit where all the orcs hatch in LOTR.
You should probably get a tetanus booster or something
Thas nasty
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That solder joint where 13 wires converge looks amazing. Anyone who’s tried this can probably attest to how damn well you pulled it off here.
Did you wrap it with a smaller holder wire? Spill the beans
Haha that harness was existing. I just replaced a row of cells 
But you’re right, i thought the same thing i should have cut the shrink off to look
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My goto method is using high-temp polyimide tape to temporarily hold the wires together and wrapping the conductors with a thin copper wire to hold them together while I solder it. But 13 is A LOT.
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I have also used this technique and it works well. I use heatshrink tho. To be honest, soldering 13 wires together would not be a situation that I would like to find myself in i woulda just spread the 3 wires equally across the group, the way this pack was built is kinda dumb 
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So this is a 2s4p config of 6s1p packs to make a single 12s4p that splits into 2 escs?
It’s beautiful…
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Stop biting your nails xD
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What do you mean by failed successfully? How is it? I’m about to print the same thing for the same remote except with the bottom part modified to hold a second tiny accessory remote on top.
I gathered from that, that the material was not malleable enough and resulted in a structural failure upon installation.
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there are a few things I can think that you can try.
slow the print down. I’ve noticed that with tpu if you print to fast then it can result in the material being pulled inward slightly with messes up the inside dimensions.
try printed the remote larger then 100% like 101% or 102% your printer might just have different tolerances than mine.
try setting the seam to random. the case does fit tight but I’ve never had one of my cases even the prototype ones just pop in one area like that. the seam is a weak point but if you set it to random then you wont have all that stress on one area.
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Notice it busted off their tungsten carbide nozzle when it exploded. Those are expensive.
They also need to change their orifice because it’s worn out badly.
Also they appear to maybe have turned off the abrasive flow and entered the wheel with pure water for some reason. You can tell because it didn’t leave abrasives embedded in the tail of the deck except for around the initial plunge hole.
Also I am pretty sure the deck breakage is from wheel debris and not the water blast.
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Yeah they were trying to speed the wheel up without cutting it
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I would have used a water-only 0.005" (125μm) orifice for that with no nozzle or abrasive