šŸ–¼ Reply to ā€œPictures and nothing elseā€ thread_2020_summer

@rafaelinmissouri, how did you manage that?

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Did you try turning it off and then on again?

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Nah. Jbweld it. Its fine.

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I donā€™t even think you need that, probably just butyl tape

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no clue dude.
I have had these motors a while and in a few different set upsā€¦ but they were in pretty good shapeā€¦ I recently put them on the Khymera which is a belt driveā€¦ I run the belts pretty loose.

I went for a ride Tuesday at lunch time and 6 miles in I hear weird noises and eventually see the motor being weirdā€¦ I thought I blew out a bearingā€¦

rhe universe new I really wanted BN 6384s on this board anywaysā€¦

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Iā€™m surprised we havenā€™t seen a single goth zenith yet

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Goth board gang xD

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I wonder whatā€™s the darkest board you can make, no silver anywhere

Can you get black axles and bearings?

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Vantablack everythanggggg.
Heat would be problematic.
I for one absolutely love dark mirror finish, maybe with some red or purple details, and spiked axel nuts.
Black bearings exist. Bushings can be dyedā€¦ ive got black wood stain and quartz sand on deckā€¦ now how do we color the axels themselves?

yes Trapstarļ¼ŒThe outer shell is carbon fiber

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paint it in vantablack

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Gang gang.

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Vantablack is an incredibly efficient ā€œblackbody radiatorā€ (infrared) and can easily shed itself of any (tiny) heating due to visible light absorption. In fact, Vantablack is so efficient that using it could result in a slightly lower overall temperature for whatever it is coating as long as that heat has somewhere to go.

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Nice! I actually didnt know that, but its interesting.

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So all heatsinks should be vantablack for efficiency?

An unnecessary expense IMHO. Just any flat paint or anodizing (doesnā€™t need to be black) can increase the terrible IR-emitting efficiency of a metal. But if the heat is just radiated onto other nearby things in an enclosure then youā€™re not doing much overall.

And if the heat sink has fins that are ā€œfacingā€ each other than each finā€™s IR emissions will just be absorbed by the nearby fin. The shape of the heat sink is very important as radiative (infrared), convective (airflow, fan cooling), and conductive (connected to other metal) cooling all need a different shape/configuration for the heat sink.

The percentage of cooling possible via radiated heat loss, versus the other methods, might not be very high as it all depends on the setup. A polished metal heat sink will be lousy at cooling via radiation (emitting IR) but in lots of air flow it will be very effective at cooling via convection.

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Makes sense. What about some kind of special, conductive paint?

The metalā€™s ability to emit IR wonā€™t be affected by the electrical conductivity of the paint. Just any plain flat black paint will get you to within a percent or two of any specialized coating.

Look up ā€œemissivityā€. Itā€™s the ability to emit IR. Metal has a low emissivity and so itā€™s crappy at getting rid of heat via radiating it. But metal has verrrry high thermal conductivity and can easily pass heat to something else that is well bonded to it (low thermal resistance between them).

If you paint metal then that great thermal conductivity passes heat into the paint. Since the flat black paint has very high emissivity it can then emit some heat away as IR radiation.

Whether this is just a tiny part of all the heat or much more depends on the particular setup. Some setups can benefit from increasing the emissivity of the heat sink. For other setups that will essentially do nothing.

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I have 2 evolve GTR decks that both broke in that exact spot. Front snapped right off.

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This is my fear with my Demonseed and Nemesis decks. It would suck to eat shit going +35mph just to get up and see your deck is also tattered

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