If its any consolation, the first prototypes of the BRP hubs i had made have a single tolerance bore all the way down, and i havent had any such issues with aluminum buildup - i just asked them for a JS7 tolerance on the bearing seat.
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Huh, yeah. wow.
.2mm isn’t insignificant.
Ditto it’d be nice if it was a single diameter all the way down. (And slightly larger)
Two wheels had the right length threads. Pure coincidence that i started mounting with these 2 ! 
Yesterday i checked the front wheels and they’re not tapped through…
I want to do these wheels aswell because it’s good to be able to change around the wheels for example when they start wearing unevenly in future (?)
So I ordered a tap tool in the above mentioned dimensions… Because its aluminium/soft material i decided on the hand-tool:
I have never “tapped” before/ used such tools. But i think this is fine for the purpose ? 
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Tapping takes some skill, definitely watch some videos and get some practice in before having a crack at the wheels!
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Yeah i’m def very carefull , and started out with a lot of videos already 
Good thing is that the first 10 or 12mm are already done/there in the wheels and this should theoretically make it a lot easier for me as it don’nt need to make/start a “fresh” tap. Am i right on this ?
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and i’m pretty good with the spanners, got a good feel for things… Just not educated, all self taught
A drop of oil is probably not necessary for this little bit of tapping right ?
I would still do it. Just use whatever oil you have, bike chain oil, chainsaw oil, engine oil… Doesn’t really matter it’s all gonna work.
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It’s easier since you don’t have to start the thread, but it’s still easy to mess up. Definitely use some kind of oil, and also don’t try and continually tap more and more thread. Half a turn, back off and clear out chips, half a turn, back out and clear out chips, repeat until satisfied. Sure, you can go faster, but snapping a tap sucks.
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Just done the tap thing , it went great. The tapping was easy. Maybe because of new tools (drill). Also the material to be drilled being aluminium, a not too hard material.
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Alright… I may be a bit slow, but could someone help me out?
As I understood the drawing, the gear attaching/ locating holes are on a 35mm diameter circle and are 5.6mm in diameter themselves.
And it appears the circle for the locating ring is 30mm.
That’s all well and good, except for me a 5.6mm “bolt” opening would overlap the 30mm locating lip.
What am I doing wrong?
From what several people have shown in this thread, that does seem to be the case.
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5.6mm is the head diameter, which does overlap the center hole, however the actual 4mm bolt hole does not intersect.
This was to optimise weight as much as possible as small increases in hub diameter lead to large increases in cross sectional area.
A bearing technically does fit through but admittedly its cutting it fine…
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#clearanceisclearance
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Thank you! I appreciate the info!
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Went for a first ride today on the Radium wheels. I felt kind of sketchy as there were pretty many wet spots on the road so i took it easy. The new MBS Matrix3 trucks and also new wheels ; a lot to get used to.
The ride feels so much more “direct”. You feel instant response on handling ; throttle, braking, etc. It feels like a sportscar 
Even the sound ; you hear it’s planted and the sound adds to the riding experience. Pneumatic tyres sort of make more noise(?) the drag of air filled tires is the difference in sound i guess. The solid rubber is sort of “silent” , on clean asfalt especially 
In my early days i skated a lot so i know the Polyutherane feeling , i was also kind of worried about this. Wet spots were super scary on thanes, you would lose grip in an instant. The Radiums are a rubber type and the grip is noticeably different. As i wanted to be carefull on my first run I didn’t really hit the limits. Def not try to “carve” too hard because of the wet patches; but i did try just hitting the brakes hard on these. Super good grip! When braking hard I managed to “skid” once but it is almost like riding/braking on dry asfalt👍🏻 Ofcourse keep in mind that when a skid starts, it will probably be hard to recover from it as a skid/slide often is; no matter what wheel you’re riding.
The combination of the MBS3 trucks, Radium motormounts and the new wheels make the board feel very premium i think. Feels solid. Like a track prepared Porsche. Radium wanted F1 resemblance, i think they did just that👍🏻
On my ride ; because i chose a little less top speed in the gearing configuration, i really had to watch out not hitting the throttle too hard as the responsiveness/ torque is incredible now, feels like a beast. the setup is 125mm wheels, 15Tmotorpulley and 45T wheelpulley.
So yeah the first 10km were a blast. I think these wheels are quite unique. I’ll have these over any thane wheel ; my first and honest impression+ opinion 
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How have they held up? How many miles do you have on them now?
I think @poastoast still on his original set I think. Not sure tho.
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Not worth mentioning in terms of miles… Have been riding them 4 to 5 times now, the ride is super. I wonder how long the core will stay “in tact”/ without play because i did notice some noise with carving heavy. MBS rockstars are much noisier on carving but it seems that these Radiums started out quiet and now beginning to have some play-sound to them like the MBS hubs. If you get my drift (?)
The wear on the surface is not noticable after 100km on them. I am curious about the core holding up after a couple of hundred more kilometers☝🏻 The machining done on them leaves little room for error/wear i think. The bearing seat seems a bit “flimsy”. It’s a very small edge to which the bearing is pressed up against. So when carving hard over longer time, and when there may be some “play” , things will wear out soon on these bearing seats. I may be proven wrong though. I love the ride, grippy and fast
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