What shaft size on this small V5.5 batch? 
8mm since its what most people wanted
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Now taking orders for 2-3 weeks, and then orders will be closed after that so if you want these motors be sure to order soon! Shipping late October.
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New setting recommendations for these motors based on real world testing.
Highly recommend updating your temperature settings to this if you want max performance in warm weather.
Very limited stock left for this batch - Motor 6485 – Radium Performance
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Those settings are recommended and same for all kV options?
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What basis is the battery amps rating? Seems a weird thing to include with motor specs. They’re not even similar in wattage…
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What do you mean?
The recommended battery currents are based around heat from experience testing and from our customers. The range is quite large because of the variation in setups, climate and riders. Thats why we always recommended to set a high motor amp limit and then adjust the battery current up or down based on whether thermal throttling is occurring or not.
Most people don’t realise you can run very high motor amps with these motors so thats why we mention it
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Pretty much. You will find lower rpm setups on the lower end and higher rpm setups on the upper end of the scale
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Firstly, I was wrong about the wattages, they are similar. The 18S max batt current is only 108W less than the other two which are consistent and the “recommended” column stays consistent at 2592W.
However, I meant you shouldn’t offer battery amp recommendations. You’re selling motors here not esc’s, no other motor seller give a battery amp recommendation with them. Offering an access of advice isn’t helping you imo since you don’t know what esc/battery customers are using and what amps those can handle. Asking for a customer to come back saying “your powerful motors burned out my ESC”
But to be honest, on second thought that vesc setting chart doesn’t really make sense to me at all. The amp recommendations should probably be given based on motor KV since that’s going to have the greatest effect on it heat. The voltage and battery amps are somewhat nonsensical to include imo since you have the voltage → KV recommendation chart already.
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Well, the faster a motor spins the more it heats up as well, so maybe taking both battery and motor current into account to draw a graph that slopes downwards as you increase the duty cycle makes sense.
It’s an easy way to inform customers that you can use X kind of current for startup, but during riding it’s best to stay under Y amps.
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Does this apply to previous batch motors as well?
Battery amps is the one every motor manufacturer uses because its what actually dictates power. You can’t really use phase amps to calculate wattage.
What power the particular ESC someone using is capable of is not really a concern when I’m talking about the capability of the motor here. Its up to you to know the limits of your motor controller and not exceed them. You surely wouldn’t go and buy a set of 10kw 80100 motors and just put in 200A into vesc tool, and then blame the motor manufacturer when the vesc blows up (well there are probably people that would but)
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Up until the very first prototype batch we had with white resin on the coils, which will be more towards the bottom end of the scale.
I highly recommend going by max operating temperature to dial in your settings for battery current as every setup will be different. This is just meant as a guide for people that don’t know where to start, or how much is safe to push.
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Better be save than sorry. If you state those current ratings on your website, include a short disclaimer like „don’t exceed your esc current ratings“ or similar. Will save you troubles afterwards just in case.
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I’m very aware how an esc works. But I think this factor is quite a bit larger than you’re realizing. Anyhow, just my recommendation, you tell people whatever you want to.
This is DIY, and @Tony_Stark sells motors. He’s sharing the specs of what those motors can handle. What you choose to do with them is up to you, but knowing the limits of the motors is pretty important information.
If someone is spending $500 on a set of motors, they probably know enough not to run 180 motor amps on a focbox, or try to pull 60 amps per side out of a 12s1p battery. If not, well gotta learn somehow.
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Technically, if you offer a wattage on a motor, you’re also implying a current.
Regarding the kv thing, aslong as the copper mass is equivalent, both low and high kv motors output the same wattage. They’re just efficient and torquey at different RPMs.
Given that its harder to push alot of current at higher RPMs unless you’re battling massive hill climbs, it make sense that lower kv motors are more efficient at lower RPMs then high kv motors.
I havn’t checked what data is avaible on the radium motors but any performance graph with amps, efficiency % and rpm will tell you alot more then just a static amp value. But they dont look that unrealistic to me tbh 
Furthermore, the reason most chinese motor manufacturers dont provide data is because then you cant question why shit broke at certain metrics. They leave it up to the consumer to figure shit out. Which is a pretty bad business practice if you ask me.
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This is more common than we would like it not to be. @A13XR3 is just trying to make a case against a specific scenario from a consumer side.
There are folks who don’t care to ask the right questions and see the big numbers as it’s there so I can do that.
If we look at how the stormcores are now advertised they have pretty conservative limits on the description page but can definitely run higher.
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I think I got @A13XR3 's point twisted. I don’t really know why battery amps would be relevant info for motors, and take back what I said.
I’ve always assumed battery determines battery amps, and motors/ESC determine motor amps.
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With modern cells and the size of peoples batteries these days its often not the case where the battery is the limitation for battery amps now. Usually its the controller thats the bottleneck, or the motors getting too hot (mostly determined by battery amps) wheras motor amps gives you that low end punch and wont contribute to heating as much or affect mid-high speed acceleration as much as increasing battery amps does
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