RaceBro: Haero Bro, 21S4P, 6395 175KV, BN310, BN gears, 9x3.5s, D100S

Get some more work done today. This was a bit tedious.

I drilled out the deck with a dremel carving bit like how @Shadowfax 4wd lacroix is.

Also finished fabricating these anti sink plate thingies with the angled grinder to go under the 3d printed cover, and I installed threaded inserts into the deck into the binding adjustment holes for spring trucks, to have the 3d printed cover mounted.

Now, I am going to reprint this in black later down the line (I think the colour looks shit) but this is the only filament that I had enough of and isn’t TPU (that I just didn’t want for this part) or nylon (that I can’t successfully print).

Then I pulled the motor cables through just to take a photo of the whole cable management system

I will have to print a riser as my current half inch riser doesn’t work too well sadly. It does the job but the cable could rub on it as it’s a tiny bit wider than the hole. I couldn’t angle the hole sideways as much as @Shadowfax because of the threaded inserts that I installed there, so I am going to print something that fits better.

And I also setup the bindings into their final positions, and added a small W to the front:

This is a 3mm thick foam that doesn’t really compress much with adhesive on both sides. I still have to apply the griptape.

I am also going to fill up the rear a bit with this foam, so that the cable management guide there makes a very very subtle W, then apply the griptape there too. I have some 24 grit griptape, so hopefully that will work decently even if the board gets muddy :upside_down_face:

Anyways, here’s the close to final look:


And I hope I can finish it tomorrow. I still need to extend all the motor wires and have the enclosure mounted. I was thinking about ways to mount the enclosure. I either do it the same way I did it on my previous board - 4 bushings as standoffs, screw goes through deck and enclosure, or install some threaded inserts from the bottom (and still have the standoffs of course). I kinda wanna do the threaded inserts, but I am not sure if I trust myself enough to be able to drill 100% perpendicular to the deck 4 times in a row :rofl:

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You’re really talking my language with that kind of fabrication :slight_smile:

Dremel, sawzall, angle grinder. Love them all.

Looking great man. This is a killer build. Can’t wait to hear how she rides

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Such a badass build. Cant help but want a set of those rubbers, i have a bro deck that i was planning on something like this… only messier

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Thanks!

I can highly recommend the tyres, they are super grippy and well balanced. Also mine are tubeless tyres, but with a tube in it. I unless I am going to physically wear out the tube, I don’t think I will get flats on these. I run them at 1.5 bar / 22 psi. The super stiff sidewall takes the load really well, and the middle is soft and grippy with a large contact patch. While cornering hard, it’s not flexing sideways like the 200x50s.

To be fair it’s worth mentioning that I only had one track session on it so far on my previous board. But it’s also worth mentioning that I did 0.8 sec better in t-race in that 10 minute session then my previous best time… 15.43 vs 16.23.

And i expect to be able to do much better times than that in my next session. I was nowhere near the limit of the tyres. I need to learn to trust the extra lean that these allow.

If you need the .stl or .step file for the wideners for rockstar pro ii xl’s then I can share it in private. I’ll also make it public later but I want to test it more first.

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I got some work done today, didn’t progress as well as I wanted though. First, I was waiting until the evening for 3d prints to finish.

I designed and printed a riser, spacers between the deck and the box, and these cable guide thingies from tpu to get the cables out from the enclosure.


I didn’t have the time to install these cable guides yet though.

Next, I installed 4 threaded inserts into the deck with jbweld (I am gonna put shorter screws in there, I just used these until the jbweld cures)

And I came to a setback.

This is how I originally intended to run the motor cables up to the top. That ain’t gonna work.

Then I thought what about running them at the hanger

But that’s also not going to work because I am utilizing the full lean of the truck, and the hanger does bite into the deck on hard lean.

Then I had the idea to run the cables through a tunnel riser first, then up through the deck. But then the cable take quite a few turns… It comes in straight into the tunnel riser, goes to the side of the riser, goes up, and then goes back to the middle under the cable cover thingy. I am not sure how much the cable would like that many turns though.

I’ll think about it more tomorrow, I am going to sleep now.

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Maybe you need to run them directly to the top of the deck and into a tunnel anti-sink plate?

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That’s probably what I would do. In my top mount esc enclosures I use cable glands out the back, works pretty well

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When I designed the orange cable cover piece I (unintentionally) did it right - I can use that as a cable channel as is.

So I am going to assemble it like this now. And maybe change it one day to the tunnel riser.

This means, that I only need to get the cables to exit the enclosure and extend all the wires. Plus get the wiring done inside the enclosure and program the vesc. I should be able to get it rolling today.

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I couldn’t finish yesterday, but today I finally finished it.

I needed to mod the receiver because it took too much space vertically - took it out of its case and bent the pins sideways (and hot glued the connector so it stays in)

I ended up not using the printed cable channel, as the fit was not perfect with the cables inside

I stacked these small 3m foam pieces with adhesive on both sides to create a channel and a W concave.

I also had some weirdness setting up the vesc. First, I did manual detection, both motors detected about 12-13 mOhm. Then I did automatic detection once, and from that point in it kept detecting first both motors at 36-43 mOhm. Then I realised I messed up the hall sensor wiring, fixed it, downloaded the latest vesc tool and rerun the whole setup from the beginning. Then one motor detected 13mOhm, the other detected 36 mOhm. I ended up just setting the 13mOhm motors resistance, ki, kp, and gain onto the other motor as well and it’s working well so far :man_shrugging:

Also, with firmware 5.3, the full speed unloaded weird behaviour is fine right?

I took it around the block today, it feels powerful, and felt great while carving - but it’s noticeable more stable and has more resistance. Now I have the red/green bushings in it, I will need to experiment with the bushings a bit, or maybe just get used to them. I need to T-race it a bit to see if I need to loosen up with white in the front or not. I will give it a proper ride tomorrow with a fully charged battery. I probably won’t do a range test yet though, as the 1260Wh battery should last a good amount, and the weather is still a bit cold.

The freshly greased brand new bn’s sound great! At full speed (unloaded) they are super loud at 16k rpm, indoors at least. While actually rolling they sounded awesome but I haven’t gone very fast yet.

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Awesome build. It reminds me of my brother’s build a bit. Haero Bro with 18s lipos and etox trucks and gears with go kart tyres.

Look forward to seeing your T-Race times on this beast!

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Slight issue. The motor temperatures read unconsistent- not sure if they are actually different but it’s possible - I am going to check it physically after the ride home.

edit:
here’s the full metr log

I really like the feel of the W concave I added, but I think I have too much control over the rear at the moment. Need to tighten up the bushing. And the W could be a bit more pronounced on the front. Probably should have made it 6mm instead of 3mm.

Another “issue” is that my hands freeze in the current weather when I use the gt2e. I will have to print a smaller case for it.

I tried to adjust the beta value for the thermistor, and accidentally overwritten the esc with default values for vesc 6 at work… I am so pissed right now lol. I clicked read and somehow it didn’t read the right values… Always triple check that vesc tool does what you tell it to before pressing the write button, lol

When you finally have it sorted how you like
, make sure you backup that configuration!

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If I need to charge up quickly:

Now that’s a lot of power. 2.5-3kW depending on SOC. lol. (I am gonna charge much slower though, just wanted to see what the charger can do.) (technically it’s within the rapid charge rate of a 4p P42A pack though)

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Heepus bajeepus. Is that in danger of popping a household circuit breaker?

240V moment

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Yeah, in the US i know that 120V outlets are good for about 1.5kW, so 3kW would definitely blow something up here. Just wondering how jealous i need to be of European skaters lol

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The standard here is 16A breakers so around 3.6kW. This charger is about 3kW peak so it’s well within spec for that.

I however live in an old house in the city where I study and here I only have 10A and not an actual breaker just a glass fuse. About 2.2kW max. Just for taking a picture I can exceed it because it blows slowly, but I can “only” really charge at 25A without blowing the 10A fuse in the wall. In a decent house it’s always 16A/ 3.6kW though

Follow up on the temperature sensor issue and this.

At work, I felt like the motors heated up differently. After having redone the configuration for this side (now with detection automatically setting the right values for the resistance and everything calculated from it, instead of me setting it manually) the motors heat up to the same temperature, so the issue is partially solved.

However. One of the temperature sensors is still kinda weird. Its like if it has very poor thermal conductivity to the stator. It’s visible in all the logs, that the temperature differs usually about 10 degrees while riding (sometimes maybe even more), but once stopping at the end of the ride, the “bad” sensor keeps increasing in temperature, settling to the same value as the other in about a minute or two.

I don’t think I can do anything about this, can I? I will send reacher an email about this, but to he honest I am not expecting them to resolve the issue. That’s the price for buying direct I suppose.

Also I managed to take some pictures today with reasonable lighting




And here’s how it looks next matrix iis on standard rockstar ii rims lol

I love the look, makes the other board look like a toy

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