Somethings cooking drivetrain wise!
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lowkey looks like a semi tire lol
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I can’t unsee that now 
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Is it going to be enclosed?
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Partially enclosed. The main idea is to keep grease near the teeth for longer and reduce noise somewhat, without compromising anything on track day performance: allowing quick wheel swaps just like regular open gears for example. Sealing is very questionable but way better than nothing at all. Plus of course more cool custom parts with nice features are never a bad thing, especially with how DIY the next phase of the board is turning out to be.
Designed around 78T spurs (stooge ones or custom lasercut ones both fit, I’ll probably be getting 1/4 lasercut chromoly gears for the immediate future), motor mount part lasercut from 8mm alu (plus using Tito’s clamps), cover 3D printed. There’s no insulation whatsoever in the direction of the rim/ tire, so the sidewall of the tire will get greasy. But this allows essentially the same quick wheel change as any open gear setup would, which is nice for raceday. And the lack of insulation this direction reduces complexity and price a whole lot compared to a fully enclosed system like the boardnamics drives for example. And the sendcutsend motor mount plate and gears along with a 3d print are all pretty cheap even in low quantity, so it doesn’t cost a fortune to make!
The large cutout on the back allows me to access my 90 degree valve stems coming off the kart rims if that all goes according to plan, so I should be able to adjust pressures without taking the wheels off (unfortunately the valve stem has to face towards the inside on the kart rims…). Hexagon pattern for weight savings and coolness factor. Designed to have the ideal angles for my setup regarding how the motors sit and there’s holes to mount crossbars for extra rigidity and to potentially act as a carrying handle to the setup, not like I really want to lift this thing but I’ll need to sometimes. The finished board would probably end up being roughly about 40 something kg or 100lbs ish
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In the meantime I also figured out probably the best way to mount a camera onto the board. I added this M10 thread to the truck plate.
I can either put a custom length threaded rod in there or a male to male adapter to 1/4" thread
I’m probably doing the threaded rod + this adapter, and the insta 360 just screws onto the 1/4" thread on this
Given that the truck plate is angled up by 35 degrees I think it’ll be a cool angle to capture the races. I can also quickly unthread the setup and move the camera front to back to another cool angle, or remove everything completely if I just want to practice without having to worry about crashing the camera.
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Europeans will do anything to avoid SAE threads😛
justifiably so
M10 allthread is really heavy, might be worth consideration to avoid
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My reasoning for it was that it better be overkill on the truck adapter side. Since it’s a completely rigid attachment all the vibrations are going to fatigue the hardware, and I’ve heard 1/4 camera screws break sometimes. There would be a decent length lever arm and the insta x4 is pretty heavy. So I wanted a beefier connection in the truck adapter part, to make sure that the failure point is not at that part. Also threaded rods are easily customizable in length by an angled grinder, so I can get the camera angle right. And metric threaded rods are easily available in the EU 
I’m gonna have the thread be 15mm deep so I should have decent engagement.
Also not too worried about a couple hundred extra grams at this point, especially since it’s removable
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Open gears go brrrrrreeeeeeee.
I have some final-ish renders of what the chassis is going to be like. Increased clearance around the corners a bit, deck width is now 261mm at the standing platform.
Drive
I figured I’ll only be getting the normal bellypan for now, not gonna be switching running the deep bellypan, and I’m sticking to current motors and ESCs. I’ll get a deep bellypan made if I need it later down the line.
Also the semi enclosed drive eats into the clearances a bit so I might be forced to run one of the longer wheelbase options, we will see. These renders were done at the longest wheelbase option and lowest setting, deck about 70mm below axle. I’d be running a bit higher ride height than this, as it just about scrapes already.
I should be able to order the lasercut gears and motor mount plates from sendcutsend around this weekend, and these will be the drives that I’ll be running at esk8con. Just ordered the double row angular bearings required to have a fully stacked axle. Gotta order some more filament and print the walls of the gear drive.
Getting the kart rim adapters and the truck mounting plates made soon too, will be sending off the finalized CAD for that today or tomorrow.
When I’m back from esk8con I’ll only need to get the sheet metal parts of the chassis to be able to start the rebuild. Will be asking for quotes from a couple different places, right now fractory is winning by far pricing wise but I’ll be needing to ask someone to dropship it for me as fractory doesn’t ship to denmark.
Oh and I just snagged the last set of Bridgestone race tires for another 40€ for the full set including shipping, so I have a backup set once the first set wears out.
I also ordered parts to make LED cones so that I can practice in the dark. And ordered the sensors and the microcontroller for the torque vectoring project. Once I have reasonable sensor readings for the lean angle, I think it wouldn’t be too hard from that point to implement some barebones torque vectoring. I don’t want to talk more about my aliexpress orders of the past week
Damn this is an expensive hobby 
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Killing it Bence!!
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This is really next level!
Man that ride height is WILD!
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I am super excited to ride it, really hope the rebuild will go smoothly! Technically that render is just about scraping, so I probably will be running it a couple mm higher, but it’s still going to be super low!
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This is insane dude, you’re crazy. Can’t wait to see it rideable
Right there with ya. And worth every penny 
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This will be such an insane board. Can’t wait to see it come to life. Looks like an ultraboard to me!
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Crazy that you prob get more clearance if you ride it upside down.
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I feel like there has to be a point where dropping ride height X below the hanger starts producing negative results…???
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Dropping ride height and going to lower rebound bushings have a very similar effect in my experience so far, and I’m on the lowest rebound options right now. Playing with washers (tbd but I have interesting theories there as well) and bushing shapes and duros doesn’t necessarily do the exact same thing, but it can be used to produce similar results.
I think if I just migrate my setup over without tweaking you’d definitely be right that it would be too much.
But my theory (and hope) is that I should be able to compensate ride feel with those other variables. I can also run an inbetween ride height if I can’t fully tweak it out, which is the main reason I designed the chassis the way I did.
Standing too high above the ground doesn’t feel good for racing, so that’s something I wanted to avoid. But fitting actual kart race tires might be the next step forward to faster lap times, and less dependency on tires, as a whole much more established industries’ race tires are readily available, often cheaper than esk8 race tires.
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I am curious to see what the feel is on this for sure.
I love this idea, and am following it closely wanting to replicate it. I’d reached out to @MoeStooge to see if he had any insight on going further below the hanger, he let me know that he hasn’t tested anything further than the GTA / V6 yet.
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Figured I can make the drive more enclosed without giving up the quick wheel swap. There will be a 2mm lasercut spacer between the gear and the hub, which seals the teeth somewhat, and I made the cover a bit lower profile to fit under the rims. Clearances are tight, but I think it’s gonna work! Motor mount plate circumference is 133mm now, so I should have about 8mm ground clearance on 6" BRP, so it definitely suits the kart wheels more.
Hopefully I won’t need to deal with too much grease escaping towards the rim with these changes. The valves to put air into the tires should be accessible through the gear drive without disassembly, hopefully this will work out with the 90 degree valves. And hopefully with this change the valve won’t get greasy.
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