where on your website does it specify that tho 
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I still have a dead motor and nothing from Dexter. Had issues since day one and I now have a non functioning board.
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Well, I wish I saw this thread before I ordered my 60Kv Direct Drives… I just finished putting my build together with my buddy like a week ago, been too busy to ride it. 
10/10 for the heads up on the axles though, ended up having to apply blue thread locker to all 4, they all came loose with barely any torque. Thankful I did that before taking it for its first test run. My motors seem perfectly fine as far as I can tell at least. Any red flags I should look out for on these motors to know if they’re going to shit on me early?
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Depending how your spacing is it’s possible to bind up the bearings by over-tightening the wheels, make sure you have it just right or could fail the bearings early.
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I had issues with the motor bearing seated underneath the wheel core adapter working its way loose over time.
It wasn’t so loose that I could take it out by hand, but it kept budging its way out over time. The inner race was scraping the wheel core adapter causing a bunch of little metal shavings to pile up in there.
I tried using washers between the motor and wheel adapter but this just gave more room for the motor bearing to keep backing out, and when it did the scraping continued.
It was ultimately fixed by gently tapping the outer race of the motor bearing with something soft to re-seat it into the motor, and then shimming between the outer race and wheel core adapter with a thin nylon 3D printed ring. Now I can tighten everything down all the way and the bearing stays put.
IMHO, it’s a great kit… I wouldn’t regret the purchase if I were you- just keep an eye on them, occasionally take the wheels off, take the wheel adapter off, give them a good look over.
Some people have clicking from the motor torque causing them to rotate a bit back and forth on the hangar. You might want to get some thin tape, kapton tape, and shim between the square part of the hangar that the motor slides over to prevent this, it’s mostly aesthetic though and isn’t really an issue… Just noisy.
If you have a problem with thermals, using computer thermal paste between the motors and hangars helps a ton to transfer heat better to the finned area between the motor.
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Is it normal for the motors to heat up just spinning on the bench with no load? They get to 70 degrees in just a few minutes. Wondering if maybe my bearings are over-tightened then 
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10 amp no load current, 335 watts is very high, and it’s not normal for them to heat up under no load… They should stay pretty cool. Mine will heat up to 70C fairly fast only if I am pushing them hard while riding.
Is there resistance if you spin by hand? They should be loose enough to be able to rotate one to a few full rotations if you spin by hand.
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Its fairly normal for them to heat up like that on the bench when near full duty cycle because of core losses. See:
If loosening the axle nut makes them spin better then check your spacers and speed rings, might need a couple more. You should be able to tighten the nut fully and still get free roll.
If loosening the axle nut doesn’t help, take the wheel adapter off and look for any signs of metal to metal contact between the motor bearing and wheel adapter. When that bearing comes loose it makes the motors much harder to spin.
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@torqueboards are you going to respond to my seized motor issue? I’ve had issues with this since day one. I know you mentioned that you no longer offer the XL motors, but you can’t leave me with a $900 purchase that was defective and leave me hanging! I’m ok with getting it replaced with the normal version, I just need this board running again.
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Thanks for the useful info! The motor I shared the graph of spins freely (I can get it to do 1-2 rotations on its own by hand), so I want to believe that motor is fine, it’s just the core losses heating it up. The other motor is definitely getting stuck, probably bearings filled with gunk. Will try to disassemble it and see…
Edit: incorrect; graph is of bad motor. Good motor uses only 2.5A at max duty.
Are you sure it’s seized and not loctited? 
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They may heat up on the bench, but drawing 10 A without load is way too much, there is something binding there
Are they easily spun by hand?
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The one in the graph yeah; sound is clean, easy to spin by hand.
Well, I opened up my dirty one as much as I could, but don’t see any sign of the bearing shaving, and despite all the grime on the outside the outer bearings look clean as well. I don’t think it’s possible to open them up any more without a press jig, right? Stumped for now I guess.
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Even when installed it spins freely? You should play and see if that motor current goes down on the bench
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Hmm, maybe it was the vesc; tried again and it’s only 2.5A at max duty. Still heats up at a rate of 6 degrees per minute though 
Edit: apologies; it looks like that graph was from the bad motor after all; it’s using 10A. After my teardown and reassembly even more now, and sounds like it’s dying.
Probably some internal bearing gone bad.
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Simplest and way i can think of is buying a fitting nut for a tightening wrench-tool-thing (sorry, english not first language) that exactly fits the rim inside the smaller bearing on your second photo, place the outer rim surrounding the big bearing in your first photo on a vice or similar supporting structure and gently tap out the whole portion of the motor with a rubber mallet. I’d clean out the bearings with wd40 or similar, see if they run VERY smooth (in my case a clicking noise disappeared after exchanging a RATHER SMOOTH running bearing against a new one) and regrease with bearing grease. Be sure you didn’t damage the rubber seal when removing. Last thing you want to do is wonder why you won’t get more detailed and precise help from the manufacturer. We’ve got other threads containing more detailed instructions though.
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for someone who wants a tldr is it worth right now buying a set of tbdd? or are the issues more then just loctiting a few bolts