Heya guys! Little update here.
Ive been continuing the modeling non-stop, and although the design is progressing, ive run into a little problem for now.
For those of you familiar with Fusion 360, you’ll know that every action you make is recorded in your timeline. Well since im learning as I go, my timeline is a mess. Just today, as i was making real progress on the design, the errors all compiled and are preventing me from adding on to the model. Im currently attempting to sort this out, but boy oh boy is it messy.
On the bright side, once this issue is sorted, the actual pack design will almost be done. Ive sorted out the magazines, which have slightly changed the way they mount (but for the better!), and geometrically fit the plugs and the fuse! Need to sort out how much nickel is going to be needed to handle this current.
You can see the little red bit peeking out the front. This is because the fuse (200a) is gonna have a transparent side, so this peek-a-preview ability will allow you to make sure that your fuse isnt blown
Just got to sort out the timeline, and then continue adding screwholes and the XT housings. Then sort out the splicing to make it more printable. Then sort out the bottom padding (the bit that fills the flat space between this and the round bottom of the deck. then think about printing.
Ahh, the joys of R&D
Might end up having to do just that. Such a pain but ohwell. I definitely need to get a mouse, just to help with navigation. Trackpad just ain’t cuttin it
The lag probably has to do with F360 being cloud based. There is a way to download projects and work offline. In addition as you add more parts it take more time to render as you work. An easy way to reduce at least some lag is to hide parts when they arent needed.
are you working on individual components and then importing into an assembly file? if you have one file with all your components its definitely going to lag
I don’t know how Fusion works, but it should have a Lightweight for the components when in a assembly, this helps a lot
Also, you shouldn’t need to import the file into another to get references, doing that in the assembly directly is way better, you start the new part in the assembly and use it as reference, this if you did everything right all parts update when something in one part is changed
This is exactly what ive done! Ime re making the file right now, and its a hell of a lot easier when you have the dimensions of everything already laying there. Almost recreated everything i had already!
So, since my last update, i’ve added the screw holes (red arrows), and sorted out the XT60 boxes (yellow arrows) that will allow for stability of the internal connectors.
So i need to partition the enclosure into several parts in order for it to be printed by a standard 3D printer. Since i intend to print in TPU, i hope to use contact adhesive to adhere the segments together to keep it waterproof. The same contact cement can be used to make the 3mm o-ring gasket that is going to be used up top. Oh the things we do to try and keep out water.
Magazine locking
So as it stands, the current mechanism for the mags is that they slide in and out from the sides, and then using 2 m3 screws per magazine screw in to secure it. While this is secure, it is not the most timely thing for hot swaps. Nonetheless, it would take less than 3 minutes for a complete battery change, which is still superb. I think i favor reliability over comfort, and for this design iteration at least will stick with using screws as opposed to another locking mechanism (eg spring), HOWEVER, as an ease of use thing, im hoping to use retaining screws to ensure that its almost idiot proof, and nothing can hinder you on the fly.
Inserts vs deez nuts
So although you can 3D print threads, the two serious contenders for screwing into your print is integrating a nut somewhere, or using an insert that you melt into the plastic. I need to decide what to use and where. The way i see it, the nut is harder to integrate properly, but it much more versatile when done right as it can be replaced if needed and does not affect the integrity of the print. Again; foolproof. However, the use of inserts will likely result in an easier use of screws and could look neater. sigh i think i’ve just convinced myself to use nuts fml
Anyways guys hope you guys are as excited for this as I am. I see so much potential in this platform, and really think that it could be something special. Im sure as hell excited to try.
Thats all for now folks!
You might look into ‘spring screws’. The spring keeps upward pressure on the screw, making removal easy. The screw has an e-ring to keep it from falling out when fully disengaged.
Will definitely look into that! The only concern would be the upward force of the spring and the vibrations working together to undo the screw. Will let you know ! Thanks bud
Heya guys, so spent today thinking about the top end of the power system, AKA how it gets to the ESC, and i’m trying to keep this as versatile and capable as possible.
The below crude drawing demonstrates what i have in mind
The only problem is that the AS150 switch becomes an ingress point to the enclosure. I was hoping to pack it with grease, but not sure as to the long term reliability of that.
If the @Gamer43 antispark is as reliable as he’s said it is, it should be able to keep up with the current.
The need for a physical disconnect stems from my uncertainty to how adding/removing the magazines will affect the circuit its directly attached to.
Which leads me to my point for writing this- your input. What do you guys think i should do? Should i keep the AS150? Try and use an XT90-s?
I would like to try and not use an XT90-s simply for current and aesthetic reasons, but if i have to, i will, especially for the first iteration.
Let me know what you guys thing about the proposed system!
Well, I use AS150s, and I see them as functional but awkward to use for a situation like this. So an XT-90S input with a fitted cap seems better in my mind.
How will the modules be locked into place? Will be there some small but constant inward pressure on them?
Damn. It’s such a shame that this switch has such an awesome exterior profile.
The mags each have two screws which screw into the main body, whilst most of their weight is to be supported by the rails, the screws maintain pressure into the xt60 connectors and prevent the mags from loosening. That’s the goal anyways
So this has been bugging me for a bit. The Screws provide the most secure solution, but its not very intuitive. The thumb-screw heads stick out a bit far, and in order to remove a pack, you have to undo the 2 screws.
End of the world? No
Annoying? Yeah
So i was thinking of alternatives, and found out that you can embed magnets with 3D printers and gcode modification. With the space i have, i can embed 2 magnets in place of the screws, which i think will give me about 6 kg of attractive force per pack. This is in addition to the friction force from the XT60 connectors. My only concern is if these forces are enough to keep the packs secure with day-to-day vibrations and forces.
What do you guys think?
In other news, i should be able to start prototyping in January, so that’ll be cool.
CAD without a mouse is evil.
