!= swarf 
Update time!
Turns out WFB bushings develop play in the kingpin hole, and this bushing has seen 3 sessions of use. The plan: for now just deal with it.
Also I changed bushing setups, I’m running 100/100 fatcone wfb in the rear and 93/95 wfb tapered barrels in the front. In the beginning I didn’t really like the change, made turns too low effort (not enough rebound/ support).
This is very visible in one of the tightest T-race laps of all. But then I forgot that I changed the bushings and went to the Brno race. Also forgot to take the extra bushings with me, which I take to every race…
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Then Brno came
I finished 2nd, which is not a bad result at all, but I was going there with high expectations and at least wanted to give David a good close fight for first place which I just wasn’t able to do for multiple reasons. Instead I was fighting hard for that second place with Vasek and Lukas.
One of the things was the bushings, I was on a very low rebound, very low effort to turn setup that I didn’t even get properly used to beforehand.
When I got on the track in the morning freeride, I felt like I had very little power compared to what I should have, the board didn’t feel like how it usually feels. This set me up for a not so optimistic mood for the rest of the day, and it’s hard to be fast when I don’t feel confident. Also doesn’t help that I only managed to find an explanation to it after the race.
This power gremlin actually turned out to be that the battery was too cold in the morning, and was sagging crazy. The 20s lipo pack was charged to 82v (like I usually do), but it was sagging so incredibly hard that lap after lap my top speed was increasing in the straight, very visibly in the racechrono log
I swear I was full throttling the acceleration and brake all the time and watch that top speed increasing… also the top speed seemed to be limited to like 65 whereas I usually reach 70 and the issue was not the length of the straight… even through the whole freeride, I didn’t manage to pump enough heat into the battery to be in the optimal temperature where it doesn’t sag so much.
Then I started charging to 83.5v to gain a little more voltage and after some heat accumulated in the battery it actually started feeling good. But the whole first direction I just didn’t feel good at all.
Then second direction it was just freeride, by that time I had enough heat in the battery and probably also got used to the different setup feel enough to not mind it as much, I actually started feeling good on the track and had the fastest freeride lap in that direction. I was really looking forward to the heats. But it started raining just before…
While I am not that happy with my performance in this race, a 2nd place is still a 2nd place and it’s just enough points to still give me a chance for first place in the seasonal ranking if I win Pitland.
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Also I ordered a second set of rims and a set of rain tires to try, which should switch on quicker at Pitland especially that now we will be racing in the cold. Really want to give myself the best chance next weekend. Was hoping for some practice beforehand, but the weather has not been good since the Brno race. Seems like it’s starting to clear up now, so I might be able to have some practice in the coming days, I’m really hoping I can.
Another set of clearance sale bridgestones for 8€ each 
after ordering I realized that these are 11” dia but they will still work because they are for 5” rims thankfully (11x5-5). I promise I won’t get any larger diameter tires than this for the raceboard
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Absolute monsters. Seems like they’d sit neutral on a 6” width rim though and I have 5” width… so it will be squeezed a bit, hope that doesn’t affect the ride characteristics too much. The shoulders definitely feel significantly softer than the slicks. The compound feels incredibly soft.
Not sure what to expect, but excited to try them soon!
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We have tested and raced the Bridgestone and MG and Vega rain compounds.
The rain compounds are instant cold track grip.
As we hit track temps of 135f (57 C) we should begin to see the rain compounds limits and switch back to tires that need temps to fire off. You will like these rain compounds. Reminds me of some of the dirt compounds we ran back in the day.
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Sounds good, can’t wait to try! I’m a little worried that the softer carcass will make the ride feel less precise than the slicks’ low slip angle feel and perfect predictability, but I expect that the raw grip at low temperatures will compensate for it.
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The 2G300 is finally in hand for the rebuild of the board onto the new chassis for next season. Looks like the CNC will be running very soon (though on the stock 100mm Z axis for now) so excited for that, hopefully I can make a first prototype before I get the new Z done. Front ESC will continue to be D100s a while longer, but eventually that’ll be upgraded too.
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Also Pitland updates. I finished the race 3rd, just a bit behind @TZDKB and quite a big gap behind @Esk8Cave.
Maybe if I didn’t forget to take my brand new wet tires with me that could’ve ended differently. I was racing on wet tires I got from kartplanet, the karting place we usually practice at before raceday.
Two of them were decent condition still, 2 were pretty much done for already when I put them on. The rubber had some minor cracking going on, zero tread in the middle, and found in the pile that probably spent quite a bit in the sun to dry rot somewhat. I decided to put these front because I tend to wear down the fronts faster, and they didn’t look like they had much life left in them. With that said, it was a really soft compound, and in the cold (~5c + not very abrasive surface) that low temperature grip still worked well.
Honestly I was also quite surprised how well the slicks did at pitland in these conditions after a few laps. They had roughly the same grip… difference being the wets had that grip instantly whereas the slicks needed a full hot lap or two to match that level, even though they barely got any temperature increase.
Now that I’m home I want to take these trash pile tires out for a T-race session and then swap on the new ones to compare the difference, just out of curiosity. Whenever I have two days in a row with good forecast…
Here’s a podium photo for the race:
It was a @Titoxd1000 Duality only podium
And then this one is the seasonal ranking podium where I also finished 3rd
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How much was the 2G300? And do you have to DM Makerx to get one?
Edit: Nvm, they finally have it listed on their websitw.
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Maybe I’m weird, and I realize you save some space and weight, but I don’t really understand buying doubles, especially really expensive ones. Blowing a $350 single would hurt, but blowing one side of a $620 double would hurt so much more.
I’ve not blown many ESCs, but it’s still enough for me to stick with two singles over a double.
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I recently tore down my 2g300 and took a look inside, turns out it’s just two single g300 pcb’s rammed into the single big alu case so if you blow one you can just buy a single g300 and transplant the pcb into the 2g300 shell, I was pleasantly surprised to find out I won’t be out a 615 dollar controller in the event one side blows up
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I would just like everyone to know that @Dinnye cheated and took the battery out of his board before this photo 
Either way, congrats on another podium this year and pretty chuffed to finally have an all @Titoxd1000 Dualities podium
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I WAS wondering how he was doing that!
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@Dinnye Congrats on the great season bro, good racing
And yeah that is pretty cool
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Great work @Titoxd1000
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All props to the racers, they killed it
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also all running on WFBs 
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Thanks dude, couldn’t have done it without your trucks!
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Redesigned the hubs so that the valve stem will be pointing outwards… Such a basic QOL thing, right? 
and now that I’m going one piece that gives more design freedom.
Now 359g each, down from 410g. No compromise on strength so I’ll take it.
Can still take a crazy amount of 28mm bearings and runs on MBS bearing spacer. Still fits the 55mm centering / 67mm pattern rims (of which I now have two sets).
Decided to go for the 67x3 M8 pattern for the drivetrain mounting also… I’m remaking the drivetrain anyways. Why? I couldn’t find 7075 from a larger piece of round bar stock than 80mm locally. Wouldn’t be enough to fit MBS pattern, plus having both 3 spoke and 5 spoke patterns means I either need a 4th axis or give up on weight savings all together. 4th axis is too much hassle for now.
Also started looking into tire pressure monitoring, more on that later. Plan is to have a decent sized screen driven by a microcontroller put out individual tire pressure and temperature data on the front of the board.
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