Us onewheel suckers like to pay 125 bucks for just a single tire…
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Technically if I want to buy lecont OT qualification tires (for 50hp karts), which would be the best tire for esk8 racing in my opinion, I’d need to buy 2 full kart sets brand new, 200€ each before tax (so 250€ each after tax), so 500€ to kit out a board and have 4 rears that’d be worthless without fronts… So that’s also 125 per usable tire. Unless… Maybe it is actually soft enough to use 4 rears, which would be hilarious. I don’t have 500€ to try those fronts now 
nor another 400€ to buy rear rims just for hilariousness factor, to have all the bought tires usable.
They’d also have the caveat that they wear super quick, a kart overheats them after 2 laps.
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Idk if the categories are the same in Europe, but I’ve seen that some places in the US have a “Cadet Kart” class for kids that uses 4 of the 10x4.5-5 tires. They probably go through them less, and people are probably dropping the money to replace them before they’re dead less, but if you could find those, it would save on having to buy two sets.
I am specifically only after the softest tires, and the softest compounds are almost excusively in KZ (shifter class).
I’ve just received a reply from Lecont, and it looks like I should be able to buy fronts only directly from them, which is great news. Excited to try their softest compound soon.
Its just that they took a while to respond, so I ran out of time and had to get something quickly. I’m just now working on mounting the new tires
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Been more occupied with university then expected, the new servos are finally wired up though. 10k rapids are comfortable for the new motors and it’s pretty quick. The bearings don’t appreciate it though.
Tomorrow I’ll get started with the milling once again, hopefully without any issues this time finally!
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awesome tool mate
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Thanks! Can’t wait to actually make stuff on it!
Couple updates: the mill is actually working perfectly now with the new servos, the previous issues have been solved. Got an exam coming up on Monday, so I’m revising for that now, but from Monday I’ll be milling stuff non stop.
I am quite optimistic now that I can actually finish the chassis on time to the race it at the next race, which is Montrevel on the 27th - from Monday I’ll have roughly a week and a half to finish the parts.
I have also decided to refine the previous footpad idea. Gonna make the footpads from 6mm alu sheets (which hold the bindings) and use 3d printed concave on top of it, this is quicker to make and less material, slightly lighter too. Added extra binding holes and optimized the cutouts. Hexagons are easier to mill out compared to rectangles. This new footpad design should help reducing the cost of a chassis a bit, especially if someone wants multiple footpads to swap between (lets say bindings/ bindingless, or regular/ goofy).
Also designed a “kicker” for the rear, I am not sure if I’ll be using that or regular flat footpads, but it’s something I’d like to try.
Meanwhile Nkon just shipped out the RS50 cells going into this board. The goal is to have the pack built in time for the Italian race, which is July 11. For Montrevel I’ll be staying on the current lipo setup.
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The best ! Footpads similar to onewheel
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Also just realized I forgot to post the Pardubice results. Was a super close fight with @davidpilny, but I ended up taking 1st place in the end by 0.09 seconds.
That’s an incredibly small difference over the span of almost 8 minutes!
I also managed to get the records for fastest lap and fastest heat, despite one of the corners being slower than previously.
The Lecont LPM tires were pretty good. The hotter they got the better they gripped. I think the highest temperature I measured was around 57c on them, pretty sure ambient was around 20-25c. I didn’t have the energy to swap wheels and try out the Mojo D5s I also brought.
I’ll also have Insta 360 videos from some of the heats when I have the time to export them. I didn’t have the energy to start up the racebox though so no overlays this time.
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That was first thing I thought too…
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What kind of filament do you plan on using?
Without having looked into how onewheelers do it, I’d say I’ll probably choose ASA for it’s heat resistance and UV resistance.
I definitely want it to survive being left out in the sun in the summer.
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The footplates look sick!!!
Could you make me some for my Hummie and my Sportster???
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57c 135f is where most “hot track” compounds begin to “fire off”.
9 hundreths of a second over 8 minuites would have made a fantastic head to head race. Put a piece of paper between you two.
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While that is true, in my experience from around 20-23c ambient, the hot track slicks perform best outdoors, even for our 3 lap short track racing. I’ll need to test some other compounds as well in the future though.
The upcoming race this weekend will definitely be interesting though, ambient temperatures are going to be 37c ~100f and as far as I remember the surface is quite coarse as well, which is generally advantageous to kart wheels. I am expecting great grip on the slicks. However the heat will probably be almost unbearable in the leathers.
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The new servos work wonderfully after I did the servo tuning. Apparently the stock tuning on these was nigh unusable for cnc stuff, with like up to 1000 step position errors… I got that down to ~5-10 step peaks on acceleration and 1 step follow error at no load 5000 mm/min feedrate. 1 step is 1.25 micron, for reference.
The two footpads are milled out, I’ve finally got a repeatable workflow figured out.
Still have some workflow optimizations that need to be done, namely play with how the manual toolchange/ tool height measurement macro works in the software as that’s very quirky now, and modify the fusion postprocessor even more… But, i now know the workarounds to the issues, so even though it’s annoying, I can actually do stuff on the mill.
Also threw together the “chassis” with 3d printed swingarms and a plywood sheet, with my secondary boards dualities and wheels just to see how the bushings in the swingarm react. So now I have a baseline of what bushings I shall test next
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What is the purpose of having both cnc and printed foot pads? Surely just the printed pads on their own would be fine?
Regarding the printed swingarms for testing bushings, are you concerned about how the printed parts may be flexing and biasing the intended feel?
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I’ll be running bindings and install studs (grub screws) for grip. The countersunk holes in the alu hold the binding posts (lots of options to choose from), for this plastic definitely wouldn’t be strong enough if I don’t add a few extra mm of height, and the whole assembly is quite chonky already. Given that I want to stand roughly same height as the axle, the total thickness definitely eats a lot into ground clearance. Plus the alu is a good material to thread the grubs into.
Definitely, there’s noticable flex in it… Still, it confirms that I’m going to be using bushings on the upper end of the durometer range. I just wanted a very rough idea first to not have to order the full riptide lineup for testing. The thing is I need 12mm ID so whatever I test in the swingarms is drilled out and not usable elsewhere after.
Also kind of tempted to play with different shapes and sizes from some 95A TPU and see how that does
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I wonder if @Tony_Stark experimeted with tpu suspension bushings and has any insight?
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