Most hub motors are more than 14. My bike’s hub has 23 pole pairs.
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Wow! What amazing project dude!! Congrats man!!!
I’m sure at this stage you already tried everything but, do you use the Wizard or manual motor detection?
Definitely you need more amps than the results of the Wizard.
Try to run hall_analyze 10 in console
What’s the motor kv?
To start with 1200W motor I would say is under powered. I use over 5 times this on a longboard on tarmac mutch less friction to overcome to start moving than a snowboard.
To give you a idea in a general DIY Single drive board on tarmac we use a 6375 motor 3550W and class this as a compromise in power
Gearing
170kv, 50.4V 15-36 gearing, 85mm wheels
Motor example
More common is dule 6355 2x 3510w (7020w) this will give a good tork for acceleration I’d guess you will need more on a snowboard if you want to power up hills and overcome the friction of the board on start up.
Secondly move volts dose not give you more tork unless you gear it down as well. If you haven’t it’s more likely to be hindering.
If the thing just wants to paddle spin I recommend upping the ramping on the remote
Can you give us some spec on poles, KV, gear ratios, paddle diameter. I want to double check what you max speed is see how low we can reasonably gear it to give you the tork for starting up
There is a tool built in to this forum to help with the calculations
Fascinating project
Following
I agree.
However, a lot of larger hub motors (scooters and ebikes, not so much esk8) can be significantly overdriven as long as care is taken not to saturate the stator or overheat the magnets.
It depends on the stator design (some do have very thin stator arms that saturate really easily, but others don’t), but it’s not unheard of to push several times the nameplate rating without much issue, especially if it’s only for short bursts, or with good cooling. (I think freezing cold air and flying snow counts as pretty good cooling 
especially if you add a couple ml of ferrofluid in there as well. That stuff is magic.)
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Yes I totally agree with the additional cooing from environmental effect will apply but as you say
Will limit the max tork needed to pull off. The higher volt battery won’t help with the tork and I’m presuming the stator is saturated as it’s not that large of a motor at 1300W makes me suspect it is. There is ways around this such as gearing. I would guess it take 60A ish to start moving some thing like this with a good punch of tork to push you up a ski slope.
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Just some quick and simplified maths
On flat ground and assuming you paddle is is 0.25 m diameter, the slip is negligible and a snow friction coefficient of 0.1 and 120 kg total system weight, you need 14.7 N.m of torque to get moving, increase that to a 10 % grade and it increases to 40 N.m
Translating that to phase current with an assumed Kv of 20, which means a Kt of 0.48 Nm/A (that would give a top speed of roughly 40 km/h on 12S), you would need 30 A for level cruising and starting and for a 10% slope 83 A
Given the lower torque capability of the VESC on really low speeds, I would say you need a good 100 N.m at the paddles to have a good performance and fun system
Unless you go custom motors, that even that may not be enough given the size constrain, I have two suggestion
1 - take advantage of the of a dual esc, get two big motors, 190 Kv 6374 or bigger, run both with a custom gearbox with a 10:1 gearing, two stage may be needed and 100 phase amps each, that will give you a 45 km/h speed and exactly 100 N.m at the paddles
2 - go to the ebikes.ca motor simulator, test all motors and see what can do 100 N.m without cooking really fast, see if the diameter is too big, if not you can use that or at least have a ballpark estimation of how big your motor will need to be
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What about two opposing screw drives?
That seems easy enough to prototype
I feel like they would give you more buoyancy to start, but ultimately slow you down on downhill.
Possibly danger but they could be plastic and not have pinch points
Perhaps they could be raised and lowered to allow some unpowered riding.
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Ok so its a motor pushing the board, but it doesn’t look like you can actually snowboard. as much as stand on the sled… I see no turns. Its ALL about the Turns
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You’re saying what I think we’re all thinking
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What’s the green material they use for the traction? (The piece that turns and has the metal claws attached to it)
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Pedrodemio - Seems spot on.
Working to add torque and reduce weight, diameter without losing surface area.
I want to try a different controller, can’t get the amps out of what we have.
UPDATE:
updated to the 3500w stator.
Needed to machine a new case due to longer magents.
No more saturation but seems not enough current/torque.
If I push start it she spins like a banshee.
I added wire between the motor and controller, could this affect output?
- Going to try ebike controller designed for the motor.
- Try Trampa 100v controller
- Alt design in progress. Reduced parts, size, rotating mass.
- might mold paddle directly to the 1200w hub.
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Are you running sensored?
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Yea, sensored. Tried BLDC too.
not enough torque to start on astro turf.
I am thinking to try my old VESC and short cables.
Lost torque when I changed controller and added super long 8AWG motor to esc wires.
Try keeping one independent variable.
If you use the old controller with the super long 8AWG phase leads, did you lose torque?
This helps determine whether it was the ESC change or the wire change that cause the end-result.
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As someone who lives in North Dakota this would be a god send. Do you have any testers who will be testing on harder snow like we get here do to it being wind blow and the super cold temperatures.
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You would probably need heaters for the batteries, and a bad ass ESC…
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As long as you’re not charging the batteries while cold, they should be okay. They heat up on their own while discharging.
Just let them sit for an hour before you charge them, if they’ve been outside while not being discharged.
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