Also thicker axles won’t give you more stability at higher speeds, they are just more durable.
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Really??? What trucks?
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Idk this was back when I did analog competitively which was almost a decade ago. I did have a boardnamics axle come out but that was my fault for not using loctite.
Those riders are riding on axels that are only 35mm long. It’s not the same. Also, most downhillers are young and not very heavy. Eska8 brings out old fat guys like me.
. I will bend a long 8mm axel in no time.
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This. A flange tightening to the face of the hanger provides more than the axel going further into the hanger.
Kinda like this😁.
The material used for the axel also makes a big difference. Using a very high strength steel such as 4140 (chrome moly), or even better 17-4SS helps. I’ve been riding 10mm stepped to 8mm 55mm long made from 17-4SS on my RKP’s with no issues so far, but am retiring them for straight 10mm.
If I was going off-road I’d definitely go 12mm, which has proven just fine.
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Outta curiosity and apologies for being perhaps slightly ‘off-topic’ - are you using the boardnamics stepped axles with surf-rodz rkp’s ?
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So just curious, if you’re making something like that from scratch, why not 16mm or more? Especially if you weigh more than 220lbs (like me 
).
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Realistically its hard to get that standardized because the bearings would have to be MASSIVE
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16mm diameter axels?
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10mm is ideal. 8mm is common, 12mm is popular for mountainboard gear, but 10mm is ideal. And I’ll tell you why. There are no bearings to run urethane on 12mm axels that don’t suck. Simple as that.
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- 12mm has proven strong enough.
- 16mm axel would require a much larger bearing seat like 35mm or 40mm (6202 or 6203) when really not needed.
All that said, you @MarkVa1 are making your own hubs, so nothing is holding you back from trying it!
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Well, whether good or bad I’m knee deep in it. . Using a 16mm threaded rod with sleeves taking the ID for the bearing to 20 mm. It’s getting pretty beefy at this point. And the only tires I could find in stock are 200x75…. Perhaps a disconnect between CAD and reality 
…. My hope is the extreme weight leads to inertial stability!
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1000’S of km with my 10mm axles on channel trucks at cruising speeds of 35mph and 260lbs weight without any problems. 
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For my DIY version of @MoeStooge 3-link trucks I start out with a 1/2" diameter and turn then axle part down to 12mm.:
Ultra-Strength Easy-to-Machine 1144 Carbon Steel Rods
- Yield Strength: 125,000 psi
- Hardness: Rockwell C30 (Hard)
- Heat Treatable: Yes
- Max. Hardness After Heat Treatment: Not Rated
- Specifications Met: ASTM A108
Also known as Fatigueproof, these rods have enhanced strength and resistance to breaking from repeated impact compared to High-Strength Easy-to-Machine 1144 Carbon Steel Rods. Containing more carbon and manganese than other easy-to-machine carbon steels, 1144 carbon steel offers higher yield strength and hardness, even without further heat treatment. Use it to fabricate parts that require stress resistance.
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A lathe seems to be a must tool for this DIY hobby … which I don’t have…
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Absolutely. Go to Craig’s list for your and surrounding areas and save a search for “Metal Lathe”. Depending where you are you can find amazing deals if you are quick. I bought a 1942 LeBlond 13 for $100.00 and it is an amazing lathe.
This is partially refinished. I take it down to bare cast iron and preserve it raw. 1400 lbs of Full Metal Finish
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No. Just no.
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That is a beast! They made things to last back then.
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