I’ve ridden in wet conditions before on my builds: very slowly, reduce the power a bit, on street wheels. The undersides get yucky but no water related issues.
The worse, probably is a shorted old SL-200 shredlight. I didn’t specifically guard against water ingress (just EVA foam gaskets) but I think I’ve been more lucky than anything. I’d get why a vendor wouldn’t want to claim water resistance…unless you’re Exway.
If they sold a rolling chassis I would be all over it! @RideParsec
Imagine a lightweight commuter board with the newer tabless cells at 50A per cell, mini rocket board.
8 Likes
The specs on this are very nice. I think this is a good niche of the market where there is not a lot of competition.
If I grabbed one of these I’d be tempted to transplant p50b’s in and toss the blue dadbod 105s.
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Will you be offering the board with different wheel options? I think the stock ones are a non starter for many of us who live in areas with potholes and gravel. Plus I see in your videos the white wheels quickly turn a dirty gray after being used.
1 Like
This board looks great, and is a breath of fresh air compared to all the big, heavy and overpowered boards.
My only gripe is that the idler is on the wrong side. For this orientation, the idler bearing should be facing the top/sky, so that the motor pulls from the slack side of the belt. Having the idler below means that everytime you accelerate, the belt puts strain on the bearing. It shouldn’t be a big deal i guess, but yea should be an easy fix with a hole drilled on the other side of the mount.
2 Likes
Just ordered the standard version. Going to give it a shot!
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Maybe I’m way off base here, but couldn’t you just swap the motor mounts with each other to “flip” the tensioner?
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I get that many won’t want the 80mm size but a priority of Aero Pro is to be a longboard with motors, and 80mm is big for a longboard wheel. All my longboards use wheels ranging from 70-80mm. You can of course use 3rd party wheels.
As for the white getting dirty, yeah that happens. Same as other white wheels.
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Aero engineer’s reply:
We intentionally placed the idler on the “wrong” side. It’s more of a preferred side to be fair, and we had good reasons. First, the Aero Pro is a street board using street wheels, placing the idler on the driving side will make it easier for clearing the debris. Second, the Aero Pro isn’t 200A/side, we have only 20/25Amps running per motor and it’s not a lot of load. And lastly, the drivetrain on the Aero Pro was designed to decouple the motor and the wheel, in order to improve coasting. That means the belt, as shown in the videos, is run loose. With the idler on the top-side, the loose belt is more likely to be damaged by the road and might even cause a safety risk when it gets caught on something. It can be flipped, but you lose the bash-guard mounting points and might damage the motors when you use the Picktail.
—Russell
9 Likes
I don’t quite understand why this is done, or how you aim to improve coasting by doing it. Is the motor not engaging the belt most of the time? Doesn’t that drastically reduce drive efficiency?
Loose belts = better free roll
By using the idler you can still have loose belts while having enough tooth engagement to accelerate/brake effectively
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Sure but we end up having to pay for the stock wheels we don’t want. Maybe just offer a version with no wheels if you don’t want to deal with sourcing and stocking other choices. A lot of us probably have a few sets of spare wheels lying around anyway.
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Anybody know if having an idler like this has an effect on the likelihood of rocks getting in the teeth?
Seems to me like if its reducing the amount of pully that isn’t covered by belt, there’s less opportunity for stuff to get in.
1 Like
Multiple SKUs just for people who already have wheels lying around isn’t a sound choice.
It might help with the sourcing part of the problem, but probably not the stocking as much as you’d think.
That sort of customization isn’t a good idea to have early on.
If offering different wheel options is important, it makes sense to develop those capabilities over time.
The place where I see this criticism being the most valid is if people don’t want the stock wheels because they’re just not good wheels compared to other options.
I would also add, its probably a lot better to be paying for 80mm wheels you didn’t want, then to be paying for 100mm wheels you didn’t want. Which is the situation you’d expect if he’s right about his product appeal.
3 Likes
It would be less expensive for Parsec to just give a slight discount to people who want to use their own wheels…and then the end user just discards the OE wheels, than it would be for them to figure out how to handle the option(no wheel kit) with an Asian vendor, and deal with mistakes in shipping, and having the right product mix ready for shipping and estimating demand for wheel free kits.
Just thoughts.
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My suggestion was an option to ship without wheels, not sure how eliminating an item creates stocking issues.
That doesn’t make sense, Parsec still has to pay for the wheels so why would they offer a discount but still ship them just because the buyer says they won’t use the wheels? I guess the easiest option is for buyers who don’t want to use the wheels to try and sell them to someone else and recoup some of the cost.
1 Like
Another point here, this board is obviously designed for beginners. It’s meant to get people into the hobby, not fuel an enthusiast’s collection