They’re glued up so that they can fit mostly under my feet, which trades away ~15mm of ground clearance to achieve a better sprung mass ratio for the “suspension”. If the pack avoids the center of the deck, where all the movement during flex occurs, the pack will avoid most of the vibration and provide less resistance to the wheels trying to move over bumps.
Why isn’t there a fishpaper+rings store called Fish n Chips?
@Evwan lent me his kweld for a couple weeks and I managed to get everything hooked up with 0.2mm nickel after an embarrassing number of test welds. The 4 center groups are conventional double stack, but the 8 groups at each end are more like a brick pack, with current zigzagging up and down (from the perspective of the brick on the left in the pic). You can see the nickel fold showing between the top and bottom halves.
don’t even talk to me unless you buy 100mm wide nickel
Onto the enclosure. For the mold I stacked up different thicknesses of foam and wood to get the right height for the each section, and put drafts all around by carving and sanding.
those are acid brush bristles, get your minds out of the gutter
After covering the deck with packing tape and a plastic bag, I glued the blocks into position and started adding layers of 3 mm foam around them for flanges and wire routing space. This stuff got a layer of fiberglass, more sanding, and five layers of mold release wax.
Out of the bag and trimmed with some snips while the epoxy was still soft, but still needs sanding around the edges. Bedliner will hide the rest of my sins.
most of those markings are sharpie for aligning my fiberglass patterns, but one of them is my actual blood! I’m not telling you which! Hail Skatan, blood for the blood god!
With the sins hidden under a glorious, rubberized coating, the battery and BMS get wired up.
The control stick needs to rotate in all directions freely at the point it attaches to my leg, as well as extend freely to accommodate the fact that the throttle is not physically located inside my ankle bones. I glued a carbon rod inside of a ball end joint and used it (plus a paper spacer wrapped around the rod) to mold a fiberglass tube. They won’t be fastened to each other in any way, so that my shit doesn’t get ripped apart in an ejection.
All of that gets glued together with a PETG hinge for following my lean angle. The ebike throttle sits on a 7/8" dowel (standard handlebar diameter) and has another PETG block to capture the trigger. The idea is that it should only capture forward/back motions with the sensor, and move freely for everything else.
proud to say I have the floppiest stick on this forum
All that gets mounted to the rear heelside deck, with a little JST plug loopkey to cut power to the throttle for when I step off the board or get ejected. Paired with a pulldown resistor on the ADC, this hits the brakes as soon as I leave the board.
theoretically, of course. It’s not like I’ve needed to test it out before. Yet. Obviously.
But enough about my stick, get a load of my BASS (big ass sprocket system). 140T #25 aluminum, with an adapter from sendcutsend to change bike disc brake mounting to scooter sprocket mounting.
did you know that if you fuck up your first set of mounting holes, you can just drill new ones and cut out a giant Cloverleaf pattern to hide the old ones?
This crime against engineerjng exists because I had to shave down a 4mm key to fit in a 4mm keyway on the sprocket but 3mm on the motor.
That’s the HV200 sticking out the back, running a custom firmware version from @jaykup, who improved the thermals of the motor slightly and also helped me work around an ADC failure because he’s just such a swell guy. The loop key, pre-charge circuit, fused charge port, and fused lighting loop key also live in this box.
3DP blocks hold these 12V LED bars facing rearwards, and dyed epoxy diffuses the light and waterproofs them. 7 in series means they can jusy run on Vbatt.
Yeah so I rode up a curb and this shit cracked wide open. It’s a clean break along the parting line, so my efforts to try and interlace the fibers from each side of the mold probably didn’t work. These need a rebuild, and I’ll stiffen the deck while I’m at it since I don’t have enough lean angle clearance.
Are you suffering from a bent shaft? It may be a treatable medical condition, ask your doctor about–
LET THE UNFUCKENING BEGIN
The strategy for the new hinge design is to make the outside concave instead of convex, so that carbon tows can be overwrapped after the blocks are installed to create a continuous piece of material around the perimeter.
I could make a second joke in this caption, but I’m concerned I would be laying it on too thicc
Here you can see the concave sections filled up with carbon strands, I also dremelled out a small concave in the forward hinge blocks to retrofit the same reinforcement for them.
As much as I hate to cover up my pretty biax skin, it’s for a good cause. I at least took the unidirectional tape and tried to match the curvature of the board, as well as shape each bundle into a little bit of a concave pad.
Dude… This is one best build threads I’ve ever seen on here. There’s a fuck ton of questions and comments I have about this, I just don’t have the time to put it all into text right now. But holy crap color me impressed. Makes me regret moving away. I’ll back back soon and I hope to see you and this beautiful device in person
Yeah, that would be great. More lean clearance and easier balancing in turns
Blasphemy.
y tho? This thing feels rock solid at speed, and I have yet to be knocked off balance by road conditions. Those were the main sources of danger on my last board.
Many thanks! I hope to ride with you again as well
To be fair, I’ve said that my own board could be considered a death trap to the mountain board people on here due to its height. So long it is for personal use only it doesn’t matter if it is safe or not
The tire doesn’t matter that much for temporary off-roading. Biggest issue is if it has enough torque or not. My street board with thane wheels can go off road but it is very slow and uncomfortable. Works well enough for small stretches where the road is dangerous but there is no sidewalk but I’ll never take dirt paths with it if there is an alternate route.
Yeah, riding grass with it is manageable at low speed, but not comfortable due to the high pressure tires. Torque is plenty though.
Understandable, the deck height on this is like six or seven inches. But above 15 kph, it feels very much self-balancing. You don’t feel like you’re on stilts while riding it, if that’s what you’re worried about.
To be honest I am no longer sure why I thought it was a death trap other than speed maybe. My brain is fried after 3 hours in 100+ f heat. Watching the video probably helped me see that is less sketchy than the mock up makes it look.
That wasn’t my issue with it seeing as I enjoy that feeling. Bending down to gain extra stability is also something I’m not a fan of doing since it isn’t as fun. I can do it but only bend down when my motors need some extra help fighting against the wind.
Although if you do fall, or get launched off when something breaks, how does the whole leg throttle thing work?
This is fucking amazing. So many custom parts, and love the forged carbon fiber. I was wondering what the 80mm motor was for, but would have never imagined this. Well done