If you made a drinking game out of that we’d all be dead from alcohol poisoning haha.
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Also get you some Tesa tape on Amazon.
It’s great to clean up the cable sheathing.
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Apologies for the delay on the charger! Wish I was in town to ship it to you sooner, will be in the mail first thing tmr. I’m sure you’re itching to ride it proper
Dang, seriously impressive, had no idea! Great build, excited to see you rip it with those snowboarding skills
I didn’t start getting into electronics until late high school, and my electronics projects had nowhere near sophistication you’ve got going on here. Great work on research and component selections, and congrats on the build.
I made my first few solder joints with my dad’s old soldering gun- I think he had the same one, I recognize that anywhere! I had a hell of a time getting good joints with that.
A proper soldering iron will make all the difference for good solder joints 
I use a Pinecil for everything I do, but an amazon special works just fine
Hard to tell, but looks a lot like a cold joint.
Ideally when your soldering, the wire and bullet connector should get hot enough that the solder can melt by touching them (and not the iron)(Notably, it typically takes some liquid solder to connect the iron to the part in order to get the part up to temperature, but yeah) You’ll see the solder flow into the wire like water into a sponge. But those joints are (probably) fine for the (relatively) low current of the 12s2p
Also… for years I had problems with my soldering iron tips dissolving over time.
I thought it was the cheap irons I was using and just kept getting replacements. I eventually realized it was because of the solder that I had bought at Lowes. All of the home depot/Lowes solder that I’ve seen was/is plumbers solder, which is sold as a thicker diameter (and why I mention this here).
Basically, (most) solder has a core of flux, which is a mix of chemical(s) that break down the thin oxide layer present on most metals which would otherwise prevent the solder from making good contact with the metal (amongst other things). Plumber’s solder is designed for thick copper pipes and thus has much more aggressive flux, while electronics solder has much more gentle flux.
TLDR; it helps to electronics solder for electronics stuff 
High pressure increases riding efficiency on pneumatics 
Your body is part of the system too, don’t forget about gear!
A good helmet minimum. I’d also suggest gloves- it’s quite annoying to do school stuff with torn up hands (ask me how I know)
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Yeah I am 
Thanks, that means a lot to me.
Haha you noticed I only had 2 screws huh
That joint wasn’t fully soldered, but this was my first time so I no doubt made some mistakes 
for now I think it will work.
Hmm good to know
I’ve got a full Mountainbike body suit
And full face helmet and gloves
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Yup, I also thought I had pretty shit soldering skill, granted without a proper setup. Got @Egtscs reccomended solder wire brand and a set of helping hands and my soldering skill improved greatly. Still the one I got is a wee bit thicker than normal but it still works great.
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I don’t know why it took me 2 days to find your build thread @Dnollie,
I will unequivocally define this build story as full stoke for me.
I am still a noob after 40+ years of living(learning) on this planet earth,
the more you learn, the more you realize how much there is to know.
I am stoked!
By the way, the vesc bluetooth modules I have are still available if you need one.
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Thanks dude 
I’m assuming they are compatible with the iOS vesc app?
Should be, I only have android phones, and linux computers to test with, but they have been running pretty solid for a couple years now.
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Ok, how much would you ask for one of them?
Update!
I got a pair of 63100s from @SirVesa in exchange for sum beers
I vinyl wrapped the motors and the bull bar with this iridescent wrap, I thought it turned out alright and it looks frickin sweet
I tested out some new 3d printing ideas and printed a fresh set of pulleys with glass reinforced nylon (PA6-GF) which hold up pretty damn well. Sadly right now, the build doesn’t have enough torque to get up some of my hills, the belt slips off and the motors whine. I don’t think that’s bc a lack of power from the motors but maybe belts aren’t tight enough or vesc setting need some tuning? 
… or I could just get a pair of gear drives. Advice would be appreciated.
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Come on dude.
Please fix that cable wrap…
This one is smoother.
Tesa tape is great to have around too.
Please and thank you.
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It sounds like the belts are a bit loose. If you can’t adjust the motor any further out you need a slightly larger idler/pulleys or a shorter belt. On a small motor pulley it leaves a little less room for error.
You can print 80T wheel pulleys 80t HTD 5M Wheel Pulley for MBS Rockstar Wheels by doomy1986 - Thingiverse
I actually lasercut those exact ones bc it was cheaper and stronger than 3dp, I can’t explain why I did all this work but didn’t CAD it a bit lighter with thinner walls between holes.
I’m not much older than you and I got very lucky with the generous people on here so if you were desperate enough for (larger)(metal) pulleys to not mind the 400g I can give you 2, I know it’s not much of an offer they’re a bit ridiculous.
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Thanks for the link, I probably should get some
I might just heat shrink the ends for now.
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thanks for the advice, Ill see if I can adjust the belts at all. I might hit you up for those CNCed pulleys, they would definintely be a good upgrade from filament.
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How tight do you have your belts? Post a clip or something.
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They are as tight as I can still put the belts on the pulleys, any more and I probably wouldn’t be able to place it on the pulley without some sort of tool. When i get home, ill play around a bit more with it and ill post a clip if it doesn’t work.
after adjusting the motor position for ideal belt tension (firm, but not tight)- when you need to put the wheel back on, have the belt around the motor pulley. Use the leverage of the wheel to “rotate” the belt onto the wheel pulley.
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This is about the tightness you’re looking for
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