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Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

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It might be a stupid qestion but whatever. Is it possible to use two different vesc’s in a dual setup??? Thanks

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I couldn’t find any info about that

I don’t think that’s true for some “dual” controllers like Unity but I don’t have dual controllers so IDK

If they are VESC compatible, then yes this is not a problem. If you use CANBUS there are other considerations, but otherwise everything should just work without using CAN.

Use split PWM (“PPM”) or dual PWM (“PPM”)

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so if i want to connect maytech 4.12 with focbox what should i do? just the CANBUS?

Do anything except CANBUS

Use split PWM (“PPM”) or dual PWM (“PPM”)

You can actually use CANBUS but you’d need to match firmware versions and there are a lot more gotchas

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ok thank you :smile:

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Realize that one side is going to overheat and throttle down much sooner than the other side though. But this is fine

but do i have to make the both settings same?

No, in fact the settings will be different. The 4.12 probably doesn’t want more than 25A - 30A “battery max” while the FOCBOX can do more

The motor numbers should match your motors.

Just set each one up like it’s on its own on a single drive skate.

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Limiting the FOCBOX battery max to the same as the 4.12 battery max can make it feel more symmetrical and not pull to one side on hard acceleration

But really torquesteer isn’t that bad, you get used to it in a jiffy just like any other quirk of your board

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i think of dual setup but one motor on front the other on back so i think it shouldnt be such a problem

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Put the FOCBOX on the rear motor, on the heelside of the board

4.12 on front toeside

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tru, thanks for help :grinning:

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Anyone here have nothing but problems with the pryside antispark? Today it almost took my battery and my car (lmfao) so it’s getting put out of commission but everyone else who has them hasnt had any of the problems I’ve been having.

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If you’re doing dual diagonal, I would not even match these. Just run each one to its full ability

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Mike is right, and I say that as someone who has a board each with eLofty original 58 KV DDs and a dual 6374 belt drive.

ELofty/cheaper DD drives:

My eLofty drives have been great for me, and up until recently, it’s been the board I grabbed first when going for a fun ride. But my cheap DD drives have been the exception rather than the rule. I’m on borrowed time. Also, I’m a bit bored with the fixed top speed on TB 110S.

Pros:

Easy to build with. Plug and play. Work well with a number of ESCs, but best with vesc-based unit. Cheap.

Cons:

Harder than you think to find a new pair without manufacturing flaws. 1:1 limits your performance/flexibility. Adapters aren’t as prevalent/easy to find as wheel pulleys. If a motor goes bad, finding/sourcing a matching motor may be difficult with so many variations out there.

Belt drive:

The dual belts took longer to get right, but the rewards more than make up for the extra work. Offers far more flexibility. I can dial up stronger acceleration or top speed with pulley swaps. Plus, I have extra components for everything on the shelf if I need them. This board is now my favourite.

Pros:

Performance, flexibility and ease of repair. Belts are a long-time proven performer and there’s a ton of options out there. You learn a bunch of things in the process of putting it together. Properly juiced dual 6374 power (or dual 6355 in your case-not a huge difference) is great.

Cons:

Takes more time to tweak and get right. You need to source and acquire a bunch of separate pieces that come together as a whole. More expensive.

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Surely its more efficient for the battery though? Drawing less amps from the cells is usually better right?

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Having 12s instead of 10s indeed draws less amps from the battery for the same constant speed with no other changes, but since the vesc does a voltage change, the current in the motor is still the same. Since losses in the battery wires are negligible compared to losses in the motor, the increased efficiency caused by the reduced heating in the battery wires is negligible, because the same amount of losses will be happening in the motor. But if you don’t change the current settings, 12S enables more motor current at speeds when you are hitting the battery limit, because the same number of battery amps is more powerful at higher voltage. That increased motor current reduces the efficiency (but improves the acceleration) when you are hitting the same battery current limit on 12s compared to 10s. 12s also allows you to ride at a higher top speed, which in practive means you’ll be drawing more battery current on average with 12s to achieve those higher constant speeds than you could otherwise do with 10s, which also reduces the efficiency since wind drag forces increase proportionally to the square of the velocity.

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