switch to bldc & repeat
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ack thanks
They charge to 3.65V
The power switch on the comm port? 
If they’re from torqueboards they are designed to bolt through the wheel
That’s because those wheels aren’t true ABEC wheels.
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Sooo, when your proper EZ-lock tool stripped the expensive ez-lock screw, what do you do?
Use a M4 screw and a wera hex?
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Stripped? JB weld/red loctite something in, let cure, remove.
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Yeah, I figured that would be an option, but the wood glue was drying, so I tried just screwing it in with the M4 screw, and it worked sufficiently. I was just worried of stripping it…
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I guess I don’t understand. You stripped the inside of the insert, but you still screwed it in? I thought you wanted it out of the deck.
Sorry, that wasn’t clear - the upper lip to which the ez-lock tool attaches to screw it in, stripped when it was half in.
It already happened a second time. I again got it in with the same method, but I wonder how people actually get this to work properly…
Might my board be too hard? I think it’s bamboo.
Bruh just use two nuts on a bolt in a drill on the pictorial drill setting
Have you not read the threaded insert bible
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Ya I couldn’t remember. I just remember having to fill up each cell with acid on my agm batteries a few years ago.
will that diagram work?
electric-skateboard.builders/uploads/db1493/optimized/3X/c/c/ccacf6f1d5d7d535dcf86a699082af329bf37ed6_2_666x500.jpeg
when antispark loop are in there is flow and board move when antispark loop are off i can charge it on pararell board, am i right?
I did actually read the thread, and that’s why I got that useless tool. Maybe you are referring to some thread on the old forum?
The method in the video is indeed superior. I wish I had seen that before.
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Oh, no.
In my world, that video is the thread insert Bible.
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If it’s still half way out, vice grips can grab the outside of the bolt and rotate it out like a L wrench