Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

It’s not really possible, and if it were, Reddit would explode with this new-found speed hack.

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@b264 (or anyone’s else) Is there a way to use split uart instead of dual receivers for the mini remote

I have a vx2 coming and I don’t like canbus so was wondering if somehow I could split the uart connection into 2 vescs?

Thanks in advance

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haha i will test it further :joy: we need more speed !
but think its just because stronger magnets in the new pu sleeves :man_shrugging:

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Could this be a bearing issue? @b264 Brian has a post somewhere that discusses turning the motor by hand to investigate but I cannot immediately find it

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Uart is just serial so you should be able to split it no problem by connecting tx on the receiver to rx on both esc’s.
One caveat - don’t connect the tx on both esc’s to the receiver - that won’t work. Just connect one of them.

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Oops @xsynatic

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I tried that, just forgot to add the video. It clicks even with manually turning it. Same spot.

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It sounds like a physical issue, and its not debris in the motor or a cracked or loose magnet, id look to the motor bearing

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Would it be possible for you to draw or show the wiring of how I could do this not great with uart

Thanks a million

maybe just cleaner than before

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If you look at the motor current plot for FOC—it uses sine waves in all 3 phases simultaneously whereas the motor current plot for BLDC uses square waves in 2 out of 3 phases at a time. BLDC gives more peak mechanical power and top speed (better for racing performance) whereas FOC has slightly more efficiency (quieter and slightly more range).

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Is 12 that more efficient?

Top is 10s4p 30Q 12Ah
Bottom 12s1p Lipo 12Ah (2x 6s 12Ah lipo in series)
With lipo i went fast and a lot of offroading, mud all that.
30Q medium street.

30Q from 41.2v to 32v~
Lipo from 50.Xv to 42v~

This should probably work (Witness my spectacularly bad ms paint skills!)
One note about flipsky receivers - yours may say “VTx” and “RTx” instead of Tx/Rx. If this is the case, VTx = Rx & VRx = Tx on the receiver.

Also worth checking if it’s 3.3v or 5v powered - pretty sure its 3.3 but don’t quote me on that.

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Increasing the voltage of the battery doesn’t change the efficiency of the motor for the same constant speed. It will slightly reduce the heat production in the battery wires but this is negligible.

In order to increase the motor efficiency with higher voltage you also have to change the gear ratio.

For example 12s/10s = 1.2

^So if you also multiply the gear ratio by 1.2, then you can divide the motor current required for constant speed by 1.2, which reduces the heat production in the motor by a factor of 1/1.2^2 - and you’ll have the same top speed as before.

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In my case its the same board.
200mm pneumatics with 15t/72t

So if you change your gear ratio from 4.8 to 5.76, then you can find out how much less motor current it takes for the same speed with 12s (compared to 10s) by multiplying the original motor current by (1/1.2) or (0.8333…) and the heat production will be reduced by a factor of (1/1.2^2) or (0.6944)

What color would you call this wheel core? Mint green? Looking for a similar frit.
download

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That’s more fluro green.

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Electric lime

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That would be fine if the damn thing would connect to anything long enough for me to flash a new firmware to it, it says that the file specified can’t be found or something similar and that’s as close to a USB connection I get, the Bluetooth “works” on the app, as in it connects, but I can’t do anything useful as flashing just times out and restarts again, and it won’t even allow me to connect with Bluetooth on the computer.