I’m not sure where to look for lipo battery building threads. The battery builders club is all about building Lion packs, but what are the do’s and don’ts of connecting lipos in series and parallel? This was inspired by a very brief convo I had with a lipo supplier on aliexpress
I’ve never ran tkp on a board with built in split angles. @DEEIF has. But it would kinda make that adjustable baseplate pointless.
From what I’ve tried. I really like them on drop through decks, like the hummie or tb40.
i would assume that if i do try, i would leave the rear as it is and use the adjustable bp to dewedge the front back to neutral position if that makes sense
what i read is that tkp turning feel doesnt improve on a wedged front truck, and it would also add up with what i experienced tryin it with indy 215s
Bearings are normal industrial parts. You could use ZZ bearings for lower rolling resistance. But they are not completely sealed like 2RS bearings from MBS here.
those of you that have experience with the unity theirs an easy setup up and a tool setup that looks like vesc tool what can be gained by doing the harder tool setup seems alot more complex for first timers
I think there was a question in there… I haven’t actually used the Unity tool, but the big one is it limits your max battery/motor amps to well below the Unity’s max specs.
Other than that, it’s just a reduced version of the vesc tool software, only including the essential configs and wizards. There are are ton more settings in the full VESC tool software, but they mostly cover edge cases.
If you keep the stock angles the same then it will be very carvy while weirdly stable at speed. Very very fun! I would highly recommend it if you need to do a lot of turns and some higheish speeds on the streets. If you need to venture above 40ish I would not recommend the TKP’s on an Evo though…
It depends a lot on which TKP’s you are referring to. Are we talking Indys or SZ or what? In most cases, using TKP’s for speed I would de-wedge the rear only, using an EVO varient wedges the front and de-wedges the rear which is often overkill and you will need to reduce the front wedge to settle it down. Might work better on a neutral deck.
The adjustable baseplate is significantly taller. So putting it in the front willl make the front taller than the rear. Be sure to add risers to the rear. The front and back don’t need to be even but if one’s gonna be taller it needs to be the rear.
hello, I have a problem, I bought two vesc with firmware 3.38. when I connected to my pc in BLDC tool, it showed a message saying that the firmware was too old. so I began to use VESC tool, I updated the firmware to 3.62 and I was trying to connect the motors clicking in wizard >setup motors FOC, but when I clicked on run detection the light red in the vesc blinked 3 times and appeared a window saying detection failed reason:-11 , so I went to the terminal and there appeared " fault: fault_code_drv", I tried this with and without the receiver conected to the vesc and it gives the same message, I don’t know if this information is matter but I clarify that when I conect the receiver with my vesc it always remains blinking , I tried to push “bind” in the transmitter and turn on it and a red light remained in the receiver and a green blinking light appeared in the transmitter however I tried again the whole process and it didn’t work. so I have not been able to use the motors, I am not a professional, this is the first time I build a skate , I hope you can help me, thank you
I use two lipo bateries of 8Ah an 22.2 v, conected in serie
and two motors sk3 6374 of 149 kv
and one transmitter GT2B