Iām pretty sure itās 10+24 x 1.5in.
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@ZachTetra Skateboards are a mixture of cultures and knowledge from different people over the years. Letās take an eskate as an example. Doubt everything you have on one is from a single source of knowledge 
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10-32 is standard skate hardware (fine thread), 10-24 is coarse thread.
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I just wanna bolt a box to a piece of woodā¦it shouldnāt be this confusing. Everyone should just go to metric because its better and this would be so much easier
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BTW Matrix II baseplates are M5x0.8 by 30mm socket truss machine screws, I realized Iām dumb and that the front truck isnāt covered
Lol letās see you come to my woodshop. Iāll let you use your metric system while asking you to calibrate parts that require 1/64th of precision 
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I believe you mean 0.4mm precision 
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Letās see that on your measuring tape
Youāre telling me youāve got 1/64th inch markings on your measuring tape?
Yup. My carpenter measuring tape has 1/64 and I have a carpenter precision ruler that goes to 1/128th for very precise adjustments (luckily I havent had to go that crazyā¦yet)
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Pics or it didnāt happenā¦no way there is a ruler with 1/128in marking
Mind you thatās still 0.2mm basically so likeā¦is it really any better? Base 2 type counting in decimal is just bad 
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Iām not at work for the holidays. But basically, my mentor took a 1/128th caliper and had the calipers removed from it. Every worker has one at their desks. We only use them to ensure our tapes give out same numbers when we buy a new one
Iāve been running a dual unit dial 8"/200mm caliper for the last year and its such a nice tool to have
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digital metric/FUB calipers are essential tools, IMHO
FUB = Freedom Unit Bullshit = Imperial
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Yeah thatās not really unheard of when it comes to carpentry work.
Unityās working now, as far as I can tell.
Got rid of the cogging by manually tweaking flux linkage, but its still spins up really slow on the benchā¦
Works fine loaded so far, but I def need to tweak currents.
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Cool post screenshots of your amp and voltage settings in particular if itās still acting weird but checking realtime data shown in screenshot above can show what control input itās getting and what duty cycle itās running at.
with 1 to 1, if the size constant (km) of the motors is the same, the efficiency in the motor of both the 58kv and the 80kv will be the same for the same acceleration or constant speed, but factoring losses in the controller, the 80kv will be less efficient in the controller because it requires more motor current for the same acceleration. more motor current doesnāt affect the heat in the motor under the scenario because the higher kv motor has lower resistance if the km is the same, so the higher kv motor is less efficient for the same constant speed because of the controller losses alone (not because of losses in the motor).
as far as 190kv and 4/1 vs 170kv and 3.5/1, if the km is the same, then the higher kv motor geared to the same top speed will be more efficient. in this case you have the lower kv geared to a higher top speed which lowers the efficiency even more for the lower kv than if they were geared to the same top speed. if they were geared to the same top speed and the km was the same, the 190kv would still be more efficient.
this all assumes the km or size constant of the motors is the same. if the km differs then the answer will differ accordingly.
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whatās the equivalent of a 12s6p in LiPo batteries?
Forty two.
Your question is similar to what is the equivalent of an apple in Duplo.
My 12s6p made up from Samsung 30q Li-ion cells is 18Ah or 18000mAh and about 777 Wh based on 3.6V.
This should help you to find something similar in a LiPo cell pack
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