Archived: the OG noob question thread! 😀

[wafflejock]

I think yes as well any changes to phase wire length which I guess includes swapping them would change the calibration results I believe not sure how big of change that would be but can’t hurt.

[annihil8ted]

Hmm now if I changed it in the vesc tool is calibration still required? Or does the software take that into account?

[DerelictRobot]

Most RC with serial communication, have two separate interfaces meaning the transmitter holes a serial connection with the receiver, and the receiver reads and validates or injects missing packets for lost rc packets.

In other words, the receiver isn’t just a wireless uart pass through, it itself is doing post processing of the packet.

Yep, totally understood here. The particular radios I’m using have their own network transport layer that runs underneath the transparent UART though, so it’s there’s packet validation at that level + at vesc packet checksum level. These are pretty complex radios- you can even load micropython apps directly to them, fully programmable MCU onboard.

Basically the only change to your design, would be software on the receiver. But if you are comfortable with relying on the VESC timing, that’s cool? I’m not saying its wrong. But I’m also not say it’s right.

I actually agree with you here, and it’s one of the reasons my 1.0 receiver hardware design has an additional MCU onboard to handle radio/vesc comms separately among a few other things (like PWM output options)

My original point was only that it’s inaccurate to say that uart method lacks failsafes that do not apply to its’ technology subset. I’m not doubting RC/Drone implementation (I did industrial long-range fixed wing back in’r’day, we should talk shop on it sometime).

[MysticalDork]

Make sure your battery will fit in your intended enclosure - a 10s5p of 21700 cells will be substantially larger than a pack of 50 18650s.

[grumpypuppy108]

thanks i changed my mind i’m doing 30q s instead because the guy im splitting with needs 18650.

[IamLee]

I decided to just install those AS150 antispark switch instead. So much simpler. Thanks for the suggest Didn’t bother to install the new LED switch or test the built-in antispark.

[grumpypuppy108]

[BillGordon]

Yes, do the same with my boards now. Good call.

[ZachTetra]

What enclosure is that?

[gustavthemighty]

Whats a good method to secure my loop key port? Id prefer a non permanent method as if the xt90 goes south Id rather not have to replace the entire box.

[Flasher]

@gustavthemighty Hot glue

[IamLee]

The big, chunky main battery and enclosure are what’s left over from my first build, a diyeboard 10s5p duel belt-drive kit. The ESC enclosure (for my Flipsky 6.6 duel plus) is from Backfire. It’s $15 bucks on their site and ships from California so I got it in 2 days!

[gustavthemighty]

I probably should have said hot glue failed me.

[Flasher]

@gustavthemighty Then neutral cure silicone. You should be able to pull it off if needed. I used a box made of tape around pieces before filling with silicone to give it a nice shape on my Frankenstein board

[wafflejock]

Pretty sure changing direction just changes the sequence the gates are open to let power into the coils so changing it in VESC tool shouldn’t change anything electrically per coil so think not needed.

[onebluesummer]

This generic 10s2 is only lasting me 2.5 miles. I’m loving this way more than that. Anyone know of a usa based single stack battery supplier?

Would a name brand battery last me a big longer ?

Is the math that a 10s4 would give me 2x the amount of juice?

[wafflejock]

Assuming the cells are the same yes doubling amount in parallel roughly doubles range maybe a bit more since cells won’t be losing as much to heat.

[onebluesummer]

Love the junction box got a link?

[glyphiks]

@longhairedboy

[M.Hboards]

What cells are in the 10s2p battery you have?