I’m stupid at math.
My 10s4p 30q pack has 12Ah / 432wh.
I started riding with 40.8v and ended with 38.8v
So i’ve spent 2v = 72wh?
I’ve done 10.76km. 72wh divided by 10.76km is 6.69wh.
Does that mean my average wh/km consumption was 6.69wh/km?
Where did the 2Ah come out of 40.8v and 38.8v? Do you mean volts? By looking at the voltage/discharge charts of a 30Q (this probably isn’t very scientific) I would say you used around 3-4 Ah.
Also remember that the curve for voltage isn’t very linear so towards the beginning/end the voltage will drop much faster.
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Sorry typo. It’s late already, i’ve meant volts.
The primary question is if the average consumption I’ve calculated could be right?
For me it doesn’t feel like it because i’ve been full throttling for like 5 or 6km straight without letting go of the throttle once. Smooth pavement, no wind.
Granted the board i’ve been riding only pulls 12A per motor (not sure about the battery, its a wowgo 2s hobbywing esc)
I’m really not sure but the way I found to calculate consumption is just fully charge the board, use a gps tracker for the distance traveled, fully discharge it, then divide the wh of the pack by the distance traveled. But again that also may not be that scientific.
No. Li-ion batteries (in fact, pretty much all batteries) have a nonlinear discharge curve, which makes it basically impossible to associate a voltage with a state of charge. The cell voltage also bounces back once it’s not under load anymore, further fucking with the accuracy. The only accurate way to do it is via coulomb counting (basically counting how many amps go in/come out of the battery).
The only other reasonably accurate way is to go from 100% full, to 100% empty, and measure your range between those two points. Any other points are not linear, and will screw up your math.
(there is a third way: measuring voltage while under load, and then using that combined with a discharge graph of your cells. But since we have no easy way to measure-monitor voltage under load since we’re focusing on not falling off the board, it’s a moot point.)
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Hey guys, I finished the wiring on my board but my loopkey is too tight, is there anything I can do to loosen it a little ?
Plug and unplug it a few times to wear it in a little bit?
Other than that, not really. It has to be snug to handle the huge currents. You can add an extra lanyard loop or other grippy thing to aid pulling it.
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Make sure you didn’t move the pins inside when soldering. I have a male xt60 connector that slightly melted and it barely fits/comes out, i also have another that doesn’t fit at all.
When soldering the antispark, or any xt connector, best bet is to have it connected in a pair, so that it stays alligned until it cools down. It will fit just like before.
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anyone know if llt has charger for 12s?
Any good recommendations for a reasonably affordable ESC and motor mounts for Matrix IIs? I had originally planned and budgeted for 2 Neobox v6s and Boardnamics mounts, but Neobox seems to have derailed somewhat and the Boardnamics are out of stock, possibly never to return. Now the next cheapest mounts I could find are $100 more, and no clue on ESCs at the moment.
changed can status to can_status_1 Vesc id 0 on main 1 on slave, (did the same for UavCan ESC Index) confirmed the baud rate , just to incase anyone has some imput xD xD
Issue motor noise at around 50% and no telomitry on remote , set to 10s 10 pole pairs an for focbox
Should be 7 pole pairs for a regular outrunner motor. It’s only something different if you’re running something weird or hubs.
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raptor 2
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Okay, disregard the above then. That falls under “hubs or something weird.”
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Yeah, that’s not a problem.
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yes. thanks.
You can use needle nose pliers to sightly squeeze the male end so the prongs are a bit closer to each other and will slide easier into the female side but if you overdo it the contact will be garbage (can spread them back out by putting exacto in the center of the prongs that make the male side and twist to pushed the prongs outward). Like others mentioned though could be misaligned after soldering, to prevent keep male and female connected while soldering.
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How do keyways work on motors and their gears? Are you meant to locktite them?