Are you looking for temporary holder for spot welding or permanent case for the cells?
Couple of options for 18650 6P search here https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=18650+6P&dwh=665d23bc87648c8
Permanent, just extra protection
That works great actually!! Thanks soo much!
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How are the ESCs connected? Split PWM (âPPMâ) or CANBUS or not connected at all (dual receivers/PWM/PPM)
That length of time sounds suspiciously like a DRV error or over ABS current error recovery time
Canbus
When I had my metr pro connected, all I saw were over current faults. No DRV ones.
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Try switching which ESC is âmasterâ and see if only one ESC powers down for 3 seconds at a time instead of both.
If so, then try switching which ESC the motors are connected to. Does it switch where the faults are?
If so, try a BLDC hand test
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Iâll give it a go swapping escâs master/slave. If I recall, swapping motors did nothing but I can try again.
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These are the kinds of things that suck troubleshooting on a 1-wheel drive setup.
But when you pick it up and toss it in the shopping cart then youâll know how light and easy to carry it is.
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Hey Dani-
Yup, Hobbywing ESC is super smooth, the remote that comes with it is good, and itâs potted for extra water resistance.
If you can wait, Ownboard should be offering their belt version HW ESC in their accessories store soon.
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Solid neoprene would probably be okay, but neoprene foam tends to crush and stay crushed. Never had it turn to dust though.
SBR, Silicone, Nitrile or EPDM are all suitable. Silicone is usually softer (more squishy) than the others, so that could be good or bad.
Iâd try to buy an adhesive-backed strip maybe 1/2"-1" wide and however long, just carefully cutting it for corners and adding a little extra silicone sealant there.
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Chunks of the neoprene foam stuck to the deck when I took it off and the edges have âchunkedâ where it got crushed by the enclosure
Will look for some thin adhesive backed stuff then
I solder to glass fuses on the charge port. The trick is to sand it slightly with 320 grit before soldering. As mentioned above you have to be quick. Make sure to put the fuse in some foam padding to avoid destruction by vibrations.
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If vibration is an issue you can always get sand-filled fuses, either glass or ceramic.
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I think first I will try an external blade fuse on a XT90s loop key and encase it in a print to protect it, if that doesnât work I will get the sand filled tubes and a holder
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Cheap China ESC sometimes doesnât have brakesâŚnow and then it just doesnât work or is super weak but pulsing the wheel makes it work again. Any known fix?
I find the brakes not so reliable when coasting downhill, but seem ok after giving it a quick squirt on the accelerator. So basically I just accelerate before braking if that makes sense.
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Thanks for the tip! I didnât realize but youâre right, it only was doing it when I was coasting to an intersection
Is 70a 1/8" SBR a good gasket material? ABS enclosure with only 8 screws and a flexy deck
Iâm not sure anything that thin would be able to be compliant enough. Maybe some of that extruded rubber weatherstrip with air space in the middle? That way it has more room to compress/expand.
70A is pretty firm for a solid, thin gasket between not-perfectly-mating parts.
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When I did my enclosure I used a LOT of screws - probably 24ish, and 1/8" thick neoprene foam, with a not-very-flexy deck and an enclosure that had some give in it.