Apparently not. Friend was having troubles.ubity reset itself after a charge. Both ppm and uart were on. Turned off uart and throttle started working again
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i do know that the unity on certain occasions has issues with UART but i think that’s when the remote is UART? (Not exactly sure what it was)
E: i believe it was applying settings with a UART remote was troublesome.
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Puck remote
where can i find this? or is it like a terminal command i need to input?
**nevermind, found it! 
u have a davega or metr plugged into the uart port? it like to act fuckery on its own when there is a uart device polling data from it while u r changing settings. my advise? set everything up, then do ur uart device, after that, don’t touch any settings.
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I also noticed something odd: my motors won’t turn at full speed when my max erpm reverse isn’t -50,000 (or less). Is that a normal value?
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What firmware & version?
What should I make my bms settings? I want to be conservative because I have a massive 16s12p pack and want the longest life. The full range would be 2.9-4.2V from the manufacturer right? So 16s means 46.4V - 67.2V. I want to keep it between 25%-75% so would that mean 51.6V- 62V?
How do I set it so it stops charging but gives some headroom so that I can use my brakes right away because of the regenerative braking?
You do that by having the BMS bypassed for discharge. That also means it’s bypassed for regen - The BMS won’t be able to stop the ESC from charging the battery via regen.
No settings required for that.
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vesc 5.2? uhh i didn’t know there were different versions 
. What are they?
I think he means to set it at a ending SOC that’s less than 4.2v per cell so that he has room for the regen to go in.
Also, @moddedlife use your esc voltage cutoff start and end to preserve your lower 25%, if that’s what you want, cause a bypassed bms won’t do it.
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First experience using the Freesk8 app and had a question about wh/km. I got a reading after a 9km ride of 18wh/km. I’m running two LiPos rated at 222wh each. So 444wh divided by 18 = just under 25km. Is this a useful calculation or does battery sag, or not running the lipos down to the minimum impact this? Is there a way to convert this into range based on running lipo down to 3.7v (44.4v total). Or should I just assume say 75% as a ball park (18.5kms).
Thanks in advance
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The “nominal” Wh rating you get by multiplying the capacity rating by the nominal voltage is almost useless for estimating range because that Wh rating is calculated at a discharge rate of under 1A (the rate they use to measure capacity).
Yes, voltage sag affects the Wh the pack can deliver. The harder you use the pack (higher discharge current) the lower the Wh. It could be 20% less or it could be 50% less. It depends on the pack and how you ride.
You’re right about the minimum voltage too. If the nominal Wh spec was calculated by running down to 3.0V, most likely, then stopping at a higher voltage means you will not get all that energy out of the pack and your delivered Wh will be lower.
I don’t have a Wh percentage you can use as a ballpark number but hopefully others chime in with some great advice.
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Thanks for the extra info. I’ve got 6 cell 10ah lipos so looks like the wh was based on 3.7v. (222/6/10 = 3.7), although what that means from real use I do not know.
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Your cells will run at a lower voltage (average) than that “nominal” 3.7V and your cells won’t deliver 10Ah when being used harder than an amp or two so your “effective” or “delivered” Wh will be lower.
My noob prediction will be about 20%-30% lower unless you are really cranking on those cells.
(Edit) I just realized I bracketed your prediction. 
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Anyone know where I could find battery terminals like this? (in this size and not from china):
I want some to easily fit with my malectrics welder + it’s case, since the ones I currently use are a little too big, and shipping is like 17 dollars from malectrics
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Skate to any local auto parts store
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I’ve tried – i bought a set the same time as i got my car battery, but the screws that go through the welder were just a little too big to fit (as were the other ones)
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what do yall think would be a safe max regen for a 12s4p p42a? I’ve kept it on -10A for the longest but I’m starting to wonder how far can I push it.
Iirc the data sheet says max charge current (edit: not max charge at all, standard charge rate) of 4.2A per cell, so 16.8A for 4P. But that’s sustained current for a full charge cycle and claims to still give the full 500 cycle life, so I don’t know what the max regen current is because it only needs to do it for much much shorter spans. I’d personally try 20 and see how it goes, should be a lot better, that’s a nice 1000W of braking
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