First one controls high-speed braking strength, second one controls low-speed braking strength.
If you set the low speed brakes too strong (Motor Current Max Brake) not only will you know right away, but it’s safer to fly off the nose at 5mph (8km/h) then at higher speeds. Those slowly fade out into the battery current levels as your speed increases.
Set Motor Current Max Break to whatever you want, but probably not less than Motor Current Max times -1.
-50% is a good guideline. So if Motor Current Max is 100A, try Motor Current Max Brake at -50A and then adjust to your liking. Do NOT enter positive numbers there.
-75% works great as well with stiffer brakes at lower speeds.
It’s a 4p 40T pack, come on. At minimum it can fast charge at 32A. For short bursts it can handle double that
@Geo_Engineering_FTW on my 12s4p p42A i run (totals) 190 motor amps, -120 motor braking, 100 battery amps and -64 battery regen. If you are geared for under 60km/hr this WILL snap your belts if you slam on the brakes, but it will keep you not under a car
Also, test your brakes. If you feel they are too twitchy and can’t keep your balance you can add a delay under app config/vesc remote. I run something like -0.7s for the negative. It’s a lot, but brakes are also really strong too so they balance out and keep me on the board
Grab onto some railing. Stay in the same spot but focus on rolling back and forth so you get familiar with the motor engagement, sensitive, and balance
Then you can move onto doing curved turns while still grabbing onto the railing so you get the feel of angle of your tire and how it behaves during a turn
When you’re done with the railing, move onto doing a stationary motor engagement then disengagement. (Put foot in sensor pad, balance for 5 seconds, and then gracefully remove foot off foot pad to disengage motor) to work on balance
If you don’t wanna do all that, the best piece of advice I recommend is: if at any point you feel like you can’t control or keep balance at slow speeds, jump off with both feet. Do NOT try to stay on or keep one foot on
Also for learning, it helps to keep tire pressure lower. Higher psi makes it more squirrely
What I want you to do is to grab your ankles right now. Look them right their ankly little eyes and tell them what little bitches they’ve become. You gotta tell them they need to eat more vegetables or some shit or they’ll never grow up to be real ankles.
All seriousness, that’s all part of the early game man. Balance and muscle memory, I believe in you
Nah, it’s really not.
I ran 80A/motor on dual 6355s the whole time I had the board (on pnummies even), and they were fine.
motor amps are not the same as battery amps. Motor amps can be muuuuuuch higher.
For example, on my ebike, I’m running 50 battery amps, and 150 motor amps with no sweat.
Alright so I set up HFI and took an initial test ride and am pleasently surprised. Everything felt pretty good.
I’ll have to see how it goes when the motors heat up. Temp is cold here now so my motors should be pretty happy.
Now I want to learn about the throttle curve. I’m much more of a torquehead than a speed demon. I know crazy acceleration isn’t efficient at all, but i can always change settings should I need more range.
How can I increase acceleration via throttle curve tool in VESC tool? Preferably in the VESC phone app. Settings given right now are "exponential, natural, or polynomial.
You increase acceleration by pushing the wheel on the remote to the very end. The throttle curves only change in which manner power is distributed across the range. The pc version gives a good visual representation.
If you really want more acceleration, give the motors more amps. Keep in mind that at some point extra power only turns them into portable space heaters, as further torque gains are minimal. Also keep in mind that as weather warms up you’ll need to go back a few amps as well