Basically the cliff notes is that he ran Enertion poorly, made a bunch of bad-practice business moves, stopped paying his employees, stopped shipping orders, stopped fulfilling contracts, let quality control go to shit, all the while kept taking orders from oblivious customers, without notifying them that they wont actually get what they are paying for.
Then after racking up all that debt to companies, customers, employees, and the factory making his shit, he declared bankruptcy, shoveled all that debt off onto a liquidation company, and came back to the community to “apologize” and “explain” and directed anyone who has a problem to contact the liquidation company which now owned all Enertion property, IP, and debt.
Then he opened up shop again almost immediately and started selling Unities (which, i should mention, is illegal). These units had shit quality control, and no customer support/warranty, because his operation at that point basically just consisted of him in his basement taking orders, and the factory that was making the Unities drop shipping them all over.
So when people say “conflict Unity’s” or “blood Unity’s” they are talking about these potentially poor QC’d Unities that are being produced with the money that Jason Potty stole from customers, employees, and companies.
That ended up being a lot longer than I intended lol
Technically a “vesc 5”, right before trampa got their hands on the vesc project and started making the real deal (vesc 6). As far as i can see it’s a beefed up v4 with the same bad sides of a v4.
Soo, yea, don’t buy a unity. Just give maker-x a go, they’re really nice and designed great stuff. Dv6 (vesc6 hw) should be great and give you perfect smooth starts
The best way is to mix West System 650 epoxy with System Three milled glass fiber and System Three silica thickener and fill the holes, once that cures, sand it smooth and go over top with a coat of just the epoxy.
An in-between way is to just fill it with epoxy or use a derivative of this method
What does the efficiency parameter in the calculator signify? When I change the value, it looks like it modifies maximum eRPM, which affects RPM and speed. Is it drivetrain losses, and how can I approximate it for a build?
Yes, it’s drivetrain losses and you should use something like 90% for polyurethane longboard wheels and maybe 70% or less for pneumatics. That’s a good approximation.
I’ve been having some issues with my recent build. On 12s with a 30:1 gear ratio (28mph top speed), my motor thermal throttles after just 5 minutes of cruising on flat ground. When I switch to 6s with a 15:1 ratio (28mph top speed), the motor stays cool to the touch throughout the whole ride.
My guess is the heat losses on 12s are caused by higher iron losses but I’ve seen a lot of people say brushless motors run more efficiently when you supply them with high voltage and a high reduction ratio so I’m not sure what to think. I would switch to 6s but I really enjoy the heaps of torque that 12s provides. Motor is a SSS 5694 800kv inrunner.
Is there a way for me to run 12s without the thermal issues or should I just run 6s and deal with the low torque output?