Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

@Geo_Engineering_FTW this photo probably doesn’t do it justice, but you can see the BN adjustable is already at ~30 and is still marginally taller. As @Athrx says, probably best for our gears to arrive and then you’ll have an answer, I will be using BN adjustable, BN gears and hummie so I can tell you if it fits or not and if so. At what angle!

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Don’t know buddy but you can use esk8 calc for this… just remember to reduce efficiency to 70% for pneumatics

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Haha, yeah i guess I’ll just have to wait, all this guessing is a bit fruitless. Thanks for the pic though :+1:

Thanks :+1:

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In terms of the imbalance in height on the BN plate, you can solve the problems with the below. They’re 1mm rubber rises pads that also act as a shock absolber between the deck and baseplate :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: @Athrx thats how you drop through the BN plates and remove the imbalance!

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That will rub down in 50 kilometers, or 2 days for me. The raised profile does not extend on the whole side and it creates room for movement

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I use these on another board and they don’t at all. In terms of movement, I havnt had any problems, you just raise the non uneven side and everything is good

Hi
Is there any difference between hub motor esc and (belt)brushless Motor esc? Or is it the same esc.
And is 3000rpm used for brushless motors?

i would assume it has to do with the Motor KV

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Motor is 5065 180kv 36v

So that is about 6000rpm

Mistake it’s 5055 270kv so 10000 rpm

What about using hot glue for sealing the holes that I’m going to drill in the enclosure…? Or should I go for epoxy, silicon or other stuff?

How big is the hole and what material is it made from? If it’s a small one I’d just use some jb weld, sand it, and repaint it. Assuming you won’t be redrilling through it

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I would not recommend rubber riser pads, get hard ones.

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epoxy

My goto method is to epoxy around the inside lip of the hole, let that cure, then epoxy fishpaper to the inside, let that cure, then fill the hole with epoxy from the outside, let that cure

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On what basis? As a 1mm thick shock absorber they work rather well? They’re not technically being used as a risers @ 1mm thick…?

Introducing a way for your truck to move relative to the deck is a Bad Thing :tm:

At a minimum, it’s going to wear out your truck hardware from the constant scraping and moving around and at a maximum it could cause you to crash because your setup is more unstable once it works its way loose and your trucks start moving a little bit while you’re riding.

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What about to prevent the deck from being damaged? I get some cracking in my drop through deck when I mount my trucks with no rubber in between the baseplate and deck.

The only thing that comes to mind for me is proper tightening of the bolts with locking nuts, as well as a quality deck.

If you leave your bolts looser than they should be, it will cause premature wear.

Like @b264 said before though, you can use a harder rubber, like real riser pad material, and properly tighten it down.

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