guys, question about selling, taking in account im in europe, how much should i sell this for (i keep the motors). 15t Nexus pulleys (20km on them), dickyho 40t kegel pulleys, dual tb rear motor mounts (some holes of the c clamp were damaged but i repaired them, so perfectly functioning) and two tb 218 hangers.
1 Like
For the sake of argument, they’re all probably made from the same place so I’ll call them elofties. And I’d have to check again, I like to separate them into 3 versions. First gen elofties with the smooth cans GREAT. Second gen elofties with the grooved vans WEAK AXLE. Third gen elofties that are being used in boundmotor, etc THEYRE FINE MAYBE?
2 Likes
YES. Damn dude, sounds like you know more than me 
2 Likes
nah man, i just remember two of those drives, never actually seen the 2nd gen ones. but im planning to get the 3rd gen ones in the future.
2 Likes
$75 international shipping is the kneecapper here 
Nothing in the description?
1 Like
(low balls so he snaggs a good price)
So like 10euro sounds reasonable?
Maybe 25 if in good condition.
Okay okay so probably 180 to 150euro range… I know you paid customs fee and that sucks.
Probably 70 for the motor mounts and 80 for the trucks… pulleys don’t really add the cost imo because most people don’t need them either because they already have them or not the right tooth for their build
1 Like
sorry, yeah im a dope. 8mm 
1 Like
Yeah, you can probably get away with a regular XT90 if you are plugging into a dedicated anti-spark. Using an XT90S is always better though. Worth the cost in my opinion.
2 Likes
How different is the ride of an urban carver using neumies and channel trucks vs say a hummie board using also neumies but on standar RKP? Any benefits using one or the other in specific situations?
1 Like
VERY different. In general. It depends.
Its really hard to describe, its something you will have to experience to really understand the difference. Lots of people will use terms like “carvey” and “turny” but really all the behaviors of both types of trucks depend on your truck angles, your bushings/springs, your deck, your weight, etc.
I have had RKP setups that “carve” more than some channel trucks I have rode, but that is more determined by the bushings being soft on one and hard on the other.
1 Like
Thanks for letting me know, i will take this in account so i know how much to save up for my us shopping spree XDD
1 Like
Don’t risk it! UART is dodgy AF with the Unity. I had a bad wreck using a VX1 and a pre-Ali express Unity a few months back. @Venom121212 has also documenting issues with that combo. I would stick with PPM/PWM, if you still want to upgrade from the mini remote I would checkout the Hoyt Puck.
Edit: the issue may be limited to the VX1 on UART, but I would definitely approach with caution.
3 Likes
A+ recommend 
3 Likes
a Couple of related questions.
- how high continuous current can you run 40T cells? Theyre advertised as 30A Continuous, but I remember that you have to generally run cells lower. 20, maybe 25?
- so lets say your running an ESC (Unity, Stormcore) that can allow max Amps of 160A Continuous and your running a 12s4p 40T battery, lets say (optimistically) at 25A, which means for a 4P battery your drawing 100A (if I understand this all right…which in honesty i really don’t)…would i need/is it ADVISABLE to get a heatsink? Seems maybe not since its not even touching the limit of either of these VESC-based esc’s.
Mooch rates them at 25A continuous. Since you are rarely going to be pulling max amps for any length of time on an esk8, do your calculations with that 25A number.
Need it? No, probably not. Really depends on the kind of riding you want to be doing. If you are going full power up hills a lot, or off-roading a mountain board at full speed, then a heat sink is gonna help you run more efficiently.
For street riding with a 50A per side limit, you are going to be just fine with no heat sink.
2 Likes
mostly street, but will be running AT wheels too on the weekends. but it seems ill be ok wihtout one. one less thing not to have to buy. thanks for getting back =D
1 Like
Yep you’ll be fine without one. And it’s not like you cant add one later if you are constantly overheating 
2 Likes
True, was just thinking of fully kitting the build out right from the start, but I think it’s unnecessary for my build to add the heatsink
1 Like