What’s best? shorter axle length between wheels in rear or in front? It’s only gonna be a 5mm difference but which side should have wider wheel-wheel length along the axle?
I’ve heard, anecdotally, that wider in the back is better for stability. But that makes your board look like a frog, which I cannot stand. Wide in the front looks cleaner to me. With a 5mm difference, it shouldn’t really even be noticeable. Try em both. See what you like. While you’re at it, try running your front wheels “inside out,” depending on wheels it sometimes changes their distance.
Currently running TB110 while I wait on the new momentum wheels, I think they’re sideset
Might be able to flip the wheels on the wider truck and even if out. But the compression on them when you turn won’t act the same. It’s kinda like… slightly sharper turns for slightly less comfortable ride.
Thing is I’m not using a wider truck. The usable axle on the BN270 is so long I can either put spacers on my rear axle to widen the wheels, I have to put spacers on the front truck so I can space the wheels anywhere between skinnier or wider than the rear truck by about 5mm in either direction. Split angle is 50/15 if that matters.
Sup, what did I miss?
I was away for the last days (family matter) in Caribbean, lemme catch up 
Ok I’m up thanks @glyphiks 
@Diverse since you plan on using them in a regular basis and you have limited time I’d suggest the following ideas to help your project :
- use either scooter wheels as hubs or make a belt drive and just do an adapter pulley and spacer for your skate wheel ; if you use pneumies your can even adapt a wheel like Haggy Bergs. Loads of saved time, making parts from scratch without any prior existing standard is a never ending fight which probably won’t settle in 70 days. Adapt whatever you can as much as you can.
- don’t weight your skates in, put everything into a backpack instead. Roller ski and ski wheels or pneumies are heavy already and drivetrain will make it even heavier
- Short battery leads and long motor cables is ok with this type of setup
- use the most reliable possible remote, no need for fancy gimmicks
And this should be an easy road map 
3 Likes
I think it’s the opposite of that.
Narrow in the front seems better for stability for me. The back is just wide because it has motors.
Yeah, the narrow front looks dumb as shit, but I value functionality higher 
I’ve noticed that frequently a 25mm difference might not be even noticeable most of the time.
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I get these mass amounts of faults. They always seem to be coming in no ,after which motors I swap or which VESC I use. The settings are identical between both VESCs (side 1 and side 2)
@b264 this happens after I’ve swapped VESC sides for the motors. Always the same side of the VESC. Although this is a brand new one.
Got the same faults on the same side with the old VESC too so it shouldn’t be the hardware. Idk though.
I started getting abs over currents the other day.
I raised my absolute max current to 200 from 150 and turned on ‘high current sampling’ in the foc–>advanced menu
Seems to have solved the problem.
Previously the only time i have seen abs overcurrent was from cogging on startup with unsensored motors.
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I’ve been thinking about the high current sampling option. I’ll turn that in and see how it goes.
I used to also use “Sample V0 and V7” on my old DV6 which seemed to work well, should I enable that? Idk how it actually affects esk8.
I don’t even know what that is.
main pos and main neg - 53v
charge port pos and main neg - 53v
charge port neg and main pos - fluctuates around 50v
14s and wont charge
sounds like a bad bms?
Check the balance.
One P group at 4.20V could cause that
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So… it seems as a new user I am only able to write maybe around 7 replies every 24h
(i know its against spam but its a bit weird that these replies also count in personal messages 
)
I guess my account needs to be over 14 days old to be granted more “freedom of speech”
Then I guess I have to try to put honks of text into each message in order to get through my partslist in an effective timespan 
(sorry in advance for the wall of text)
I havent ordered anything yet but really want to as soon as possible 
This far the motors I linked seem fine? and I can only hope for the things to not get caught in the shipping-jam from china or wherever they send these from… I just could not find any of these motors in my country maybe I have to change my concept to other motors if these cant arrive in time.
Vanarian recommended to use hub wheels (are the ones I found actually not hub motors?) and use as many existing standarts as possible. I thought about widening the wheel mount from the skate to fit the motor (aluminium welding in university-workshop or screws). And then machine an axle for each skate that has thes right size of “square” for the quare holes of the motors :L
As the axles would be simply stuck into the aluminium wheel mountrs I would imagine them not handling the motors torque well and turning the axles in the holes of the wheel intake (the stock skikes axles are of course not meant for torque…) Thats why I may need to not only widen the mount but also attach some sort of block of aluminium with a shape in it that holds axle of the motor and keeps it from turning. Yeah… that block would need to be welded or somehow attached to the wheel mount. And yes I guess this modification only applies for hub motors and I wouldnt need to put that block of aluminium (but still widen the mount) if I used an external motor. Only exeption might be a smaller hub motor on top of the wheel pressing down on it and powering it this way. But for that I would need to create some sort of guide so the hub motor gets pressed onto the wheel (but i heard these hub motors arent that great in general to begin with) I still would like to get the big hubs as standalones as they seem the most “simple” and clean solution.
The escs you recommended seem great but are similarly priced as the foc sv6 which I would hope are not being shipped over the Hamburg port (its overfilled right now because of world situations) If someone in europe got an offer for two identical of these escs I would maybe go with that as thats more likely to arrive 
As for the bms I think I will go with the bluetooth ones that frame.b022 recommended. They seem pretty good!
And the cells are okay as well I guess even though the nkon site doesnt offer a detailed sheet about the cells but I guess 21700 cells are able to charge safely with a little bit more current than 18650 so I could get to an acceptable brake-current?
Also… what kind of current for braking would you recommend?
Also I heard that the regen braking doesnt work, if overcurrent /overcharge protection kicks in. Is there a way to split the excess current with a module of some sort to another load, like a resistor, light bulb or something to eat the current that would be too much for the cells/esc/bms to handle? Either with lets say 40 amps brake current charge the batteries with 10 amps and the excess 30 amps are splitted to the “extra-load”? (that seems kinda hard as current goes for the lower resistance which would be the cells if I got that correctly…)
Lastly the receiver and remote where I need to use the most reliable remote possible which I guess would mean no weird two receiver to one remote thing and just go with two of these mini remote-combos in parallel (both skates each a remote and receiver) or did he mean a particularly reliable model of remote or a good transfer-technology for the signal in general? (like 2,4g instead of bluetooth or analog?)
Vanarian also recommends to get as much weight off the skates as possible (they alone weight nearly 2kg each) and I thought about keeping the battery mount on the skates with the esc and receiver in them. And then make small adaptors for the battery mount that would enable extension cords that can be laid up the legs to a backpack or fanny pack /belt where a bigger batterypack (with the esc) is. But he seems to recommend to put even the esc with receiver into the backpack? Is the Idea with the extension of the battery cable (backpack) to the esc (in shoe) not safe/doable? Something with currents? He just sais short battery leads and long motor cables are okay and I dont really know if that is what i meant or the cable from esc to motors? (esc+battery+receiver in backpack | just motor in skates)
Anything still on this partslist that I overlooked?
And Vanarian: what kind of remote setup do you use? Are you using two identical systems with one /two remotes? Do you use a backpack battery? (What cell-configuartion do you use?) Also how does it feel and handle driving with full rubber tires on different surfaces and how is it to balance especially when braking? (I guess you use regenerative braking?)
Sorry for these question-strings as I dont know how many replies I need for short questions so I just added everything I could remember. 
Also thanks to all the people that answered so far!
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I plugged in my Vesc and now it’s not working? Shorted out my connectors and got new ones which seem to spark so ik there’s power through the circuit but the Vesc doesn’t turn on at all anymore
Needs way more details before anyone can diagnose anything. Pics would help greatly.
- What ESC?
- Where was the original short? What connector shorted?
- WDYM sparking? Sparking is bad
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my XT90-S sparks when I plug it in, is it absolutely imperative that I pop the hood and replace it ASAP or can I wait until the next time I need to unplug my Battery to do the swap and just leave it connected for now?
Sounds like you ran it either at 20S or you ran it without it being ALL THE WAY plugged in
Just leave the board turned on 24/7 — but do NOT let the battery die. You will regret it if you do.
1 Like
I plugged it in too slowly one time.
yeah I killed my last battery for months by letting it die, had to leave it on charge for ages to bring it back up.
I need to wire in a loopkey still so yeah I’ll just leave it connected until I get around to that. might do it at the same time as waterproofing.
I’m not cool enough to run things at 20S yet…