Yeah would want to check the schematic that they send you in the box, but it allows the remote (vx1 in my immediate experience) to show battery voltage on the four LED scale. Pretty helpful imo
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Wait, would you just use 1 p group for bat+ or what on the other one? There isn’t a schematic or anything with the VX2 at least that I have other than just something that shows you to just hook up the VRX1, VTX1, GND, and 5V pins to the ESC. Probing around on the board it seems like BAT+ just goes to a shunt, then a 39k resistor then to an ADC pin on the PAN163CX as far as I can tell, though I’m having trouble finding much documentation on that chip. I doubt putting ~40V on that would do anything good.
There is a red line in one of the schematics on flipskys website that shows the bat+ connected to the red lead on the vesc
Oh, yeah there is. That is very strange to me and TBH, the idea of doing that sketches me out and confuses me on multiple levels. I’ve never seen a little 5V MCU that was fine with you hooking that much voltage up to it, I have no clue what the ADC is going to use as a reference in this situation, and a whole list of other things. I guess I wasn’t paying attention when I bought it and I haven’t used it yet, but it will just get the battery voltage over UART if you’re using it that way right?
Nvm, it makes sense now. I thought about it a bit more and realized I was probably just missing the second half of the voltage divider in my probing. The ADC is connected to the ground through a 1k resistor so the MCU will only see 1/39 of the voltage of your pack.
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Anyone have 13pin connector recommendations? Trying to go as small as possible. Need a wire-to-wire male female pair.
Doesn’t need waterproofing, locking, anything fancy at all
(can’t find a 13pin jst wire-to-wire set anywhere)
I’ve got a ton of 13-pin JST XH connectors and receptacles. If that size is okay PM me your address and I’ll pop a set in a padded envelope and 1st Class them to you.
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For what I’m thinking, a 13pin jst ph receptable to jst xh connector adapter cable is the perfect solution, but that seems like a lot of aliexpress digging and/or work. (Daly balance harness to LLT bms)
Or a totally different 13 pin connector set
One 13-pin JST XH connector would also work (in addition to the LLT balance harness I already have), it’s just a bit more of a tight squeeze. That would be lovely if you’re willing. I imagine the xh and ph crimps are not the same, eh?
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I don’t know but you’re probably right.
Two connectors and twenty pins ready to go, PM me your address.
I don’t care if you need less, you’re getting these. 
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Doesn’t exist, though you could use a BN220 and BNM1 set with hubs that fit the kenda clone 50mmx150mm tires evolve uses
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Thx. Think it’s time to try different hubs then.
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And less than 1mA of current (through the 39k resistor)
I don’t know the specifics of this mcu but the atmegas on arduinos can handle 40mA iirc.
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The current is just going to ground. Inputs are high impedance, but can only handle a certain amount of voltage. On Arduinos it’s the outputs that are limited to 40mA. If you try to draw more than that from an output, bad things will happen. If you want to measure a current you need to measure the voltage across a known resistor or shunt with known resistance.
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While you are correct that most of the current is going through the 1k resistor in the divider circuit, some current must be going into the adc pin of the microcontroller in order for it to be able to measure the voltage…
However on an atmega328p each group pin can source and sink 40mA maximum (20 is recommended)
On a side note. I have no idea who I bothered looking up the datasheet…
Where is the best place to buy metal wheels for a mountainboard that isn’t Trampa? Anywhere in the US?
Where my metal workers at?
How feasible of an idea do you think this is?
I can weld a decent frame shape but want to try a kart with a fixed axle for myself (big esk8 approach).
Really just curious if a 12mm bolt of XYZ material welded to a frame would stand any chance of not bending or breaking the weld under an adult weight.
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If it’s TIG & properly welded you’re fine. MIG… wouldn’t exactly trust. Kinda a if you knew what you were doing you wouldn’t be asking the question… if you’re going over 25mph I would probably not trust a garage MIG job to not break.
Bending is another issue… I’d say it’s likely but it’s not going to be catastrophic, so have fun w/it until it happens?
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You’re such a cunt in every response 
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Not my intention in the slightest but I couldn’t think of a better way to word it, sorry.
I’m just trying to say that if you’ve already MIG welded something, but you don’t entirely feel safe about it yourself, I probably wouldn’t risk it.
It is hard to tell how well you (not you) penetrate into the metal with MIG, unless you’re like a regular hobby MIG welder. It is much easier to tell how well you’ve penetrated with TIG, & in general it’s pretty hard to mess up TIG with something of that size.
Essentially having over 3 years of somewhat frequent TIG & MIG welding, I wouldn’t trust my safety with something I MIG’d
Sorry fren, was just trying to give input
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Hm… Well. KalyNYC has some
Psychotiller technically has some
Boardnamics will be offering some “soon”
MBS has the Fivestars
I can’t think of anyone else US based
Newbee rims are really nice though