@Battery_Mooch has talked about this more than once - if you search you can get the specifics from the expert himself, but essentially, everything you do with your battery impacts it’s longevity in a giant sliding scale.
Charge it slow - longer life. Charge it to less than 100% - longer life. Don’t run it to empty - longer life. In contrast, if you charge at 1C or greater every time, or run it from max to min, or let it overheat, etc etc you’ll carve some charge cycles off.
Long story short, yes, a 4A charger is healthier for your battery. How healthy? That depends on your cells, your pack, how often you do it. If 6A is only 0.5C then it’s probably a pretty negligible difference.
Can someone tell me what actual benefits I get from a smart BMS compered to a normal on? Considering I will be running the thing charge only! I now have this Daly
What would I gain safety wise other than seeing at what voltage my P groups are?
My battery pack is a 10s3P from Molicel P26A
What are the practical benefits. What are the things that i can even affect in the app?
For the smart bms that LLT sells, in the app you can tweak things like charge cutoffs (stopping charge at a preferred voltage), at what voltage you’d like to start balancing, if you want cell balance always in ( iirc this is not recommended)…aaand some more things I’m probably forgetting. But I think those are some common settings that get tweaked
If you get a CAN compatible bms that can also show battery stats on something like a davega, that is also something a smart bms can do that a ‘dumb’ one cannot
The setting that you apply to each motor/esc is the amount of battery amps that motor will take.
If you have a dual setup, each motor/vesc should not be set to more than half of what your battery can continuously discharge.
Battery is capable of 100A - Each motor/Vesc should not be set to more than 50A battery max.
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The ONLY time that this is different is if you are using unity firmware and focbox tool. In the focbox UI you just set the total that the battery can do and the firmware divides it.
Assembling a gear drive, bn m1’s blahblahblah, i only have one shaft key, but i need to cut the shafts down anyways, so i can just cut the key in half while im at it, right?
Took apart my motors because I was worried that I got some metal shavings in them and one can was wayyyy more difficult to get off than the other. Tested and the good one can can slide easily on and off both sets of bearings, the other gets stuck as soon as it comes in contact. Have to push really hard to get it on, and had to use a puller to get it off in the first place. Is there any way to fix this or am I just gonna have to deal? Noticed that the shaft also has some discoloration compared to the other.
Like Brian said, just sand/polish the shaft until it fits. Fine grit sandpaper (400 grit and higher) is all that’s needed, you don’t want to rough up the surface any more than necessary, and the amount of material that has to come off is very small - generally a few tenths of a thousandth of an inch - 0.0001" or so.
Right, so uuhhh (this seems way too simple a question To actually ask, but I am kinda lost here)…
How does one “outward mount” motors?
I guess really what I am asking is: where do I get those spacers from?
