Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Pardon my getting technical for this post but I wanted to mention a few of the dozens of things that can make for extended testing time.

Even if I were to use an already available ESC board layout, and could find all the correct components, a thorough test phase is critical if this ESC is to be released as a product.

The board’s design might have been validated by another company but that was for the particular boards they had made. My boards, even if a direct copy of their board’s layout, will be different. Even if made by the same company.

All the big chips will be the same but my board could be using capacitors and resistors made by different companies, with slightly different specs/ratings. This could mean a different tolerance for the physical stress they get put under when heated and cooled. Especially since the board expands/contracts at a different rate than the components. The other company’s version of this ESC might have used components that could handle that. My board might not be doing the same. I need to test for that and these kind of failures can take months to appear. If I offer a 1yr warranty then this is a huge concern.

Is my board the same grade of pcb material as the earlier board? From the same manufacturer? What if I decided to use a thicker (to improve cooling) or thinner (to save money) layer of copper on the boards? I need to test whether this affects anything.

Was a different solder used for my boards? Perhaps the older board used a solder with lead in it that is softer than the lead-free solder I want used. This means my solder is more brittle and less able to expand/contract with heat. This adds more stress to the components and to the solder joints themselves. These failures can take quite a lot of time to appear though so extended testing is needed.

Were my boards cleaned, after soldering, as well as the older boards? I need to test for current leakage across the board.

Are my boards being used in the same environment as the boards created earlier? Are riders stressing the ESC more now? Are they using higher voltage packs? Are the current levels higher? The battery wires longer (creating higher voltage spikes)? These things can require more testing to make sure that the older board design I copied still holds up well.

Is my board typically being packed into a smaller space (than the earlier board) or being cooled less effectively? This can raise the temp it operates and I need to test whether it can handle that.

There can be other things to consider and test for too, even for a design that copies an existing one. Manufacturing a reasonably reliable commercial product opens up a whole new frontier of things to worry about.

If I am just making something for me then a barely held together pile of salvaged parts on a copied and untested board is no problem and gets me going quickly. :slightly_smiling_face:

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holy o’fuck

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I’ve heard that vesc based hardware can run brushed motors and have seen the DC setup in the software but am curious about how that’s wired up.

3 phase wires on the esc, 2 wires on the brushed motor. :thinking:

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Connects to phase 1 and 3 only, although double check what VESC tool says in case you try it because it might be phase 2 and 3 only instead.

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Bout to make my son’s go kart much more fun :smiling_imp:

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a guy bought my board

3ds drives 1:2.6
stretched metroboard 155mm
210kv 6396 motors
4wd
12s8p p42a

he loves the board but said 2 things

first range is lacking - he is unstretching the tires but im wondering if it could be the drives need greasing?

also torque - its pretty knock your socks of as is but up steep hills you can use the full throttle (insanely quick but he was hoping for more) is taking motor amps to 90/100a per motor over the top? (currently at 80a per side and 70 battery amps)

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How heavy is this guy because that’s one beast of a board

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If that guy is complaining about range… Is he expecting it to be infinite or something? That battery has more range than most high end or boutique boards. That machine could go further than my old roommates car.

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80-90kg (thats at a estimate)

board for me got around 25-30 miles
he gets around 20 miles
not such a ridiculous amount

on a flat you aint hitting that throttle very hard
i got a hill near me (8% or so) and i can just hit the end of the throttle when accelerating up that
he says on the big hills he would want even more power
this issue is less major and its more just wondering if putting them up to 100 motor amps is to much

the main issue is the range

From what I understand If a motor is pulling 100A it’s only pulling that half the time so a theoretical 50A tax on your battery. With 2 motors each at 100A your battery is only taxed total 100A so I think you could turn it up for more torque, but it’ll make you use more w/km

Also, 20 miles is pretty good if he’s hammering hills and stopping/starting frequently. With lighter riding he should be able to get 30 miles which is really good range imo.

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Can someone confirm if I can fit meepos shuffle hubs with clouds 105H to meepos shreder trucks under spud? If not, what other hub accessible choices do I have? Thanks

To be fair the three things that can go wrong with higher current are the battery getting hurt, the motors overheating, and the ESC getting kaboomed. I’d be surprised if 6396 motors couldn’t take 100A, and given he’s only using it for insane hill torque rather than top speed stuff it shouldn’t be anywhere near hitting the battery limits. Don’t push the battery current in VESC tool beyond 70A per side and those two concerns should be ok.

What ESC is it? I’m not very confident in guessing what split of motor and battery current ESCs can take, or very experienced with many different ESCs so maybe someone else can answer that part

spintend

70a per side and 100 motor amps per side should be ok with it

will push it up for him

main issue is range

anyone know how bad for range stretched tires are?

If range is an issue, have you considered leaving motor amps high and reducing battery amps to like 25A per side? Range will go up, top speed should be similar

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I use the Android web app. Works perfectly fine and is better than a browser because no pesky search bar

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Typically in vesc tool, app settings write to both sides automatically. Do what you will with that

What if you make only one pedal with control that sits at position 0. When you want gas, you push down. When you want brakes, you have a seperate brake pedal that pushes a lever to raise the gas pedal backwards acting as brakes.

Push brakes down, gas pedal rises. Kinda like a sea saw between the two pedals.

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Same

Typically yes. This time at least the ppm settings are only on one side.

Yea, something like that is what I’m currently planning on working out. I think I’d probably do it with cables instead of linkages though. I think it’s a decent solution since it has the added benefit of the rider not being able to press both pedals at once.

Your friendly neighborhood noob here

I’m curious how worth while it would be to replace the 12awg motor and battery wires to 10awg wires? If it was a worth while thing to do, is there anyone already offering that type of service work? I know 12awg should hold up just fine to whatever I throw at it but have seen 12awg is only rated for 70a.

Enlighten me with the truth fellas!