you’re going to wear down and snap your belts a lot more often and more quickly like that. it’s best to go the other way with pulleys wider than belts, or at least the same size
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Unpopular opinion here, but I think that’s probably better than using a 12mm belt. Reason being that the small pulley is typically the one that experiences skipping and if you’ve got a 15mm contact patch on the small pulley then having only 12mm contact patch on the large pulley might not matter too much since it’s not typically the large pulley that has issues with skipping.
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I’m not a EE or a EE student, but to me this sounds reasonable except for the fact that it could be an issue for both pins on the AS to be powered at the same time right? (Assuming you fitted the pull-up resistor)
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This won’t work because in that design, the precharge happens through the switch. The switch isn’t only carrying data.
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Does this seem to close? how much do you think the motor mount will move when the motor is at its highest moment of torque. They are 6384 motors. my last build was a chain that I created the adapter for, so there was tons of room. This is my first premade belt drive system. The belt does fit perfectly and is perfectly aligned, any movement of the gears and the belt either hangs off the gears or just wobbles.
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To specify im talking about the FS Dual 4.20 with integrated anti spark. Im pretty sure this still has a dumb anti spark that does not precharge. In the off Position the switch pin is connected to - and in the on position to the + pin. When its off it shouldnt really need to transfer power. My guess its only so the pin has a fixed potential and a resistor should also do the job. When its turned on the connection is the same as with the original switch.
Im not really sure why the off pin would need a direct connection.
Do you think it could damage the anti spark if i try that?
Without ever knowing which specific antispark model you’re referring to, that’s rather unlikely to be answerable.
But in general you could try it and let us know if it lets the smoke out.
I know one of their models precharges through the switch.
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Tested it out. Nothing blew up but it doesn’t switch reliably. you really need a no and nc contact. I guess i will just use a Relais controlled by the switch.
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Just try it out. If it rubs you will hear it. If the mounts are solid it should be fine.
Don’t use a relay on a skateboard
They’re fine, pretty much equivalent to standard zealous bearings.
Can I use two different motors if they have the same kv rating
I already used a very small Relais quite successfully 
It’s actually for a scooter with mechanical backup breaks.
Is there a off the shelf solution with NC and NO function?
I didn’t want to design one myself because I was scared to accidentally switch both contacts of them together.
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You could make one with MOSFETs but I’m curious what you’re using it for.
Since boards are so illegal in Germany and im kind of bored of my e bike for commuting I want to take a Germany legal scooter and completely replace the internals while keeping everything on the outside the same. The problem is that the scooter only has one button for everything. Turning on, off and changing modes and light. My Current idea is to use a Arduino to analyze the button and control the anti spark, light, display and send temporary speed profiles over uart.
Everything except the anti spark is already working. A Relais would be the obvious easy solution but maybe not as reliable ?
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My bearings are all fucked. I mean they work, but theyre fucked and im outta extras. And there are like, 40298532 different brands of bearings out there. Search bar told me you all love zealous, im not a big fan of those as i dont have a bearing tool, and their hard to change out, especially on aluminum core wheels. Aby other recommendations before i buy one aesthetically pleasing set, then order up a hundred pack of cheapies off amazon?
Temporary profile set up using Metr is an option. Resets if you power off and on again.
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yea metr is for when i want to unlock the scooter. But the 3 legal driving modes should also still work.
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Honestly, in my opinion, bearings don’t matter nearly as much in the esk8 world as they do in the non-e skateboard world (especially downhill).
With muscle-powered sk8, any energy loss is very significantly felt and thus is best avoided at all cost, so special bearings and lubes popped up with lower rolling resistance, etc.
With esk8, we have so much more energy on tap, and it’s not coming from our muscles, that a fractional increase in drag from using regular bearings with regular grease barely moves the needle in comparison to things like ride speed (wind resistance).
I’d say get a big pack of the cheap ones, and swap them when they get crunchy.
You could always add some paint or a sticker to the outer shields if you want to make them look swanky.
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The best thing you can do is clean them, I’ve restored bearings that were frozen, wouldn’t move to now spinning for 20+ seconds. If their caps can be removed to expose the ball bearings inside, you can take the bearings off from the trucks axle, pry them out and get some isopropyl alcohol, pop off the caps with a small Philips screwdriver, careful not to damage any, that’s what protects the ball bearings from dirt, etc. Keep them in there for a bit, you can tell if it worked because the liquid would be a dirty color. Next you need to dry / lubricate them. Would recommend getting bones speed cream, can find it on Amazon. Pop them back in and enjoy. Bearings are essential to speed, if the bearings aren’t spinning as fast as they used to. Your pretty much putting resistance as you ride so you aren’t reaching those speeds you desire, cleaning them and adding fresh lubricant, increases the bearings performance significantly, you’ll feel the difference
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