Seemingly alright at 4.2v, can use a zener diode to drop the voltage down ~1V if youre feeling extra safe.
I’m a little concerned. So, I was out riding, checked my battery, and saw something similar to this:
Needless to say, I stopped immediately and brought it home. However, it went back to this.
For the astute observers among you, you’ll notice that the timestamps are close together. I have been noticing that it sometimes reads a horrible voltage difference between 10 and 11, then reverts. Is this a known issue with the BMS or did I fuck up real bad?
I’ll check the cells now, but any input would be appreciated.
If that’s the bms I think it is, then its probably bad. I had one recently do the same thing. Group 6 and 12 were swapping voltage readings. 6 would be very low one second along with 12 being abnormally high. A second later they would swap. 6 would be abnormally high and 12 would be very low. Removed bms, checked all voltages, all were good. Replaced with new (same brand) bms and have had no issues since.
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This is the one I have. Does it match your old one?
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Yeah that’s it
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I don’t think its anti spark for me. Switch seems ok, chip thats supposed to have a hole when AS is blown doesn’t have a hole in it.
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what happens if u keep shorting the 2 mom pins? does it even power on? or any led blinks?
Nope nothing. Draws 0.3a at 12v if it means anything.
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sorry to say, but its toasted
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Wondering how it can just die like that…
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we all wonder the same thing 
but im afraid not many people actually know how it was working just fine, then pop it goes
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Thanks, my current plan is to glue a hex key on to the tiny bolt and try and twist it round since the grooves have worn away
I doubt you’ll be able to transmit enough force with glue.
I’d suggest using a torx but (slightly oversized so it’ll bite into the hole).
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I tried a torx but no luck, t’s going to have to be a blowtorch method, and maybe some tiny jeweller pliers.
Where are you located? I have a welder with which to try the old “weld a nut on top” trick.
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I’m in the UK. I’ve got a blowtorch coming soon, also my friends a jeweller, so worst case j can maybe use their tools to juggle to free. Thanks for the offer 
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If the tool head isn’t stuck (froze inside), try a strong magnet. I stick a magnet to a screwdriver and then the driver to the bit. It has worked multiple times for me unless the bit is stuck stuck
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What’s the go-to ESC for low power builds? Thinking about doing a single motor commuter build next, and I don’t really need a ton of power, but all the recommended ESCs are either duals or have way too much headroom to justify the cost.
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Mini foc plus from makerx? I use mine in a pretty demanding build 2wd (although they’re thermally coupled to a big ol’ block of aluminum). Haven’t had any hiccups while riding.
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I am having some issues with my setup feeling anemic with no (intentional) changes made. It felt like my remote was not providing full power. While I was checking my settings, I noticed that the MOSFET temp limit start was set to 6C. I must have accidentally deleted the 0 at some point. My question is, what is the behavior when the start limit is met? Does it limit acceleration, power, current?? And at the end temp limit, does it shut down?