What about to prevent the deck from being damaged? I get some cracking in my drop through deck when I mount my trucks with no rubber in between the baseplate and deck.
The only thing that comes to mind for me is proper tightening of the bolts with locking nuts, as well as a quality deck.
If you leave your bolts looser than they should be, it will cause premature wear.
Like @b264 said before though, you can use a harder rubber, like real riser pad material, and properly tighten it down.
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Change the deck to a better one
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Is there an issue with having a long power cable (40cm around)
When I say power cable I mean the switch cable
Fair point 
What qualifies as harder rubber?
I can’t say if exactly 40cm is going to cause any issues, but there was a thread earlier that said something along the lines of the shorter they are, the better. Longer ones create a large voltage spike because of the inductance built up in them, which causes problems in your esc, iirc.
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Yes.
No. Unless the switch is a loop key.
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Sorry confirmed that I meant switch wire not the battery wire
Realised I made it sound confusing
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Thanks not a loop key
Momentary switch
100A durometer
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Good question - I can’t give you a shore number, but think dried out pink eraser hardness?
Something like that is probably about the hardness of a regular riser pad
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The @RipTideSports tunnel risers are a good example of what I would call “hard rubber” except they are polyurethane. They aren’t hard, but they are very, very stiff. 60D polyurethane, which is approximately 100A
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Ha!I was just about to ask your thoughts on these while reading above.
While I have you… Do you run a tkp up front and rkp in back on any of your short boards?
I ask because that is a scenario I may need to do for extra clearance from front wheels to enclosure.
No, but on longboards I fancy a DKP in the front and RKP in the back
Still have yet to try a TKP / RKP on a shortboard. I feel like the TKP/DKP is better for the longer wheelbases, but IDK
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Thank you, I think I can get by without, but am keeping it in the back pocket in case.
I am curiuos about the carvability/stability of that setup.
Also, I don’t ask to many questions, but have learned a lot from reading your responses when helping others. I’ve helped a local buddy by screenshotting your posts a few times.
Thank you!
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I think the RKP have a more linear response while the TKP or DKP are more “divey” where the more you lean, the more turn-per-lean there is. RKP also are easier to control once you approach overspeed / speed wobbles than TKP. For lower speeds, TKP are better. For higher speeds, RKP are better. I find that putting a DKP (which is a style of TKP) up front gives you the carvey feel but keeping an RKP in the rear helps with speed wobble mitigation, it feels like a nice blend to me.
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Good stuff, intriguing. I’ve been sheltered in the rkp world other than a few miles here and there on a metrox/Lacroix.
I definitely need to mess around with other trucks at some point.
Thanks again
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is there a way to have a battery powered disk brake connected to your front 2 wheels in case of a vesc shutdown that your remote could still control.
so if a malfunction with your internal stuff then these brakes could be battery powered and you could still brake and slow down?
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Yes
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my battery problems have returned to torment me. really strange that I’m able to still ride/charge it with a dead p group. I’m ready to attempt a battery build this winter…I think I’m ready anyway…over 2 years of reading virtually every thread on battery building/problems.
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