Check the balance.
One P group at 4.20V could cause that
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So… it seems as a new user I am only able to write maybe around 7 replies every 24h
(i know its against spam but its a bit weird that these replies also count in personal messages 
)
I guess my account needs to be over 14 days old to be granted more “freedom of speech”
Then I guess I have to try to put honks of text into each message in order to get through my partslist in an effective timespan 
(sorry in advance for the wall of text)
I havent ordered anything yet but really want to as soon as possible 
This far the motors I linked seem fine? and I can only hope for the things to not get caught in the shipping-jam from china or wherever they send these from… I just could not find any of these motors in my country maybe I have to change my concept to other motors if these cant arrive in time.
Vanarian recommended to use hub wheels (are the ones I found actually not hub motors?) and use as many existing standarts as possible. I thought about widening the wheel mount from the skate to fit the motor (aluminium welding in university-workshop or screws). And then machine an axle for each skate that has thes right size of “square” for the quare holes of the motors :L
As the axles would be simply stuck into the aluminium wheel mountrs I would imagine them not handling the motors torque well and turning the axles in the holes of the wheel intake (the stock skikes axles are of course not meant for torque…) Thats why I may need to not only widen the mount but also attach some sort of block of aluminium with a shape in it that holds axle of the motor and keeps it from turning. Yeah… that block would need to be welded or somehow attached to the wheel mount. And yes I guess this modification only applies for hub motors and I wouldnt need to put that block of aluminium (but still widen the mount) if I used an external motor. Only exeption might be a smaller hub motor on top of the wheel pressing down on it and powering it this way. But for that I would need to create some sort of guide so the hub motor gets pressed onto the wheel (but i heard these hub motors arent that great in general to begin with) I still would like to get the big hubs as standalones as they seem the most “simple” and clean solution.
The escs you recommended seem great but are similarly priced as the foc sv6 which I would hope are not being shipped over the Hamburg port (its overfilled right now because of world situations) If someone in europe got an offer for two identical of these escs I would maybe go with that as thats more likely to arrive 
As for the bms I think I will go with the bluetooth ones that frame.b022 recommended. They seem pretty good!
And the cells are okay as well I guess even though the nkon site doesnt offer a detailed sheet about the cells but I guess 21700 cells are able to charge safely with a little bit more current than 18650 so I could get to an acceptable brake-current?
Also… what kind of current for braking would you recommend?
Also I heard that the regen braking doesnt work, if overcurrent /overcharge protection kicks in. Is there a way to split the excess current with a module of some sort to another load, like a resistor, light bulb or something to eat the current that would be too much for the cells/esc/bms to handle? Either with lets say 40 amps brake current charge the batteries with 10 amps and the excess 30 amps are splitted to the “extra-load”? (that seems kinda hard as current goes for the lower resistance which would be the cells if I got that correctly…)
Lastly the receiver and remote where I need to use the most reliable remote possible which I guess would mean no weird two receiver to one remote thing and just go with two of these mini remote-combos in parallel (both skates each a remote and receiver) or did he mean a particularly reliable model of remote or a good transfer-technology for the signal in general? (like 2,4g instead of bluetooth or analog?)
Vanarian also recommends to get as much weight off the skates as possible (they alone weight nearly 2kg each) and I thought about keeping the battery mount on the skates with the esc and receiver in them. And then make small adaptors for the battery mount that would enable extension cords that can be laid up the legs to a backpack or fanny pack /belt where a bigger batterypack (with the esc) is. But he seems to recommend to put even the esc with receiver into the backpack? Is the Idea with the extension of the battery cable (backpack) to the esc (in shoe) not safe/doable? Something with currents? He just sais short battery leads and long motor cables are okay and I dont really know if that is what i meant or the cable from esc to motors? (esc+battery+receiver in backpack | just motor in skates)
Anything still on this partslist that I overlooked?
And Vanarian: what kind of remote setup do you use? Are you using two identical systems with one /two remotes? Do you use a backpack battery? (What cell-configuartion do you use?) Also how does it feel and handle driving with full rubber tires on different surfaces and how is it to balance especially when braking? (I guess you use regenerative braking?)
Sorry for these question-strings as I dont know how many replies I need for short questions so I just added everything I could remember. 
Also thanks to all the people that answered so far!
3 Likes
I plugged in my Vesc and now it’s not working? Shorted out my connectors and got new ones which seem to spark so ik there’s power through the circuit but the Vesc doesn’t turn on at all anymore
Needs way more details before anyone can diagnose anything. Pics would help greatly.
- What ESC?
- Where was the original short? What connector shorted?
- WDYM sparking? Sparking is bad
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my XT90-S sparks when I plug it in, is it absolutely imperative that I pop the hood and replace it ASAP or can I wait until the next time I need to unplug my Battery to do the swap and just leave it connected for now?
Sounds like you ran it either at 20S or you ran it without it being ALL THE WAY plugged in
Just leave the board turned on 24/7 — but do NOT let the battery die. You will regret it if you do.
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I plugged it in too slowly one time.
yeah I killed my last battery for months by letting it die, had to leave it on charge for ages to bring it back up.
I need to wire in a loopkey still so yeah I’ll just leave it connected until I get around to that. might do it at the same time as waterproofing.
I’m not cool enough to run things at 20S yet…
Plugging them in really slowly is also bad. Just jam those suckers in hard
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Did you use a loop key or even antispark XTs?
Yes I used an XT90 Anti-spark connecter
I used a Maker X " E-BOARD DUAL ESCS GO-FOC DV4 BASE ON VESC4"
I used xt60 connecters between the vesc and battery which shorted out and smoked up.
Replaced it with an xt90 anti spark connector which had a spark when I plugged it in on the positive side.
The problem is there’s no on/ off failsafe so the moment the terminals in the connecter touch, they take the full charge before they can handle it.
Are anti spark connectors still supposed to spark and smoke but just less??
Uh
What now mate
?? why? did you plug it in backwards lmao
Pics?
That’s the point of the XT-90s…
No connector should ever spark or smoke.
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you plugged in the XT90-S too slowly. you should replace it and when you plug in the new one plug it in fast. just ram the connectors together.
No I didn’t jam it in fast enough so 100% of the current went through before 100% of the connecter wasn’t plugged in being able to support it.
Also fuck you with the condensation
Bro I did it once and waited two weeks for the part no way I have to replace already
chill out he’s trying to help.
and with small cheap parts like connectors you should always order extra, just in case of things like this.
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Chill lmao
nothing I said was false, I responded that way because you said a lot of concerning things in one paragraph
No antispark should actually spark, I have them on like 7 boards and none of them spark, but like tech says you plug it in fast not slow
Can you share pics of your setup
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no. you can blow the resistor inside the antispark connector and if so it will spark. you are just good at plugging them in fast enough so you’ve never personally experienced an issue.
Nah I’m saying the resistor shouldn’t blow, if it does it was probably faulty - I plug them in, in idk, 1 second and its fine? If the resistor hasn’t blown - there is no spark. That’s the whole point
This is why I wanna see pics to see if something else is weird
Have yours sparked before?
I’ve had a couple XT90-S that I’ve plugged in too slow and blown the resistor. one that happened a couple days ago, and I noticed the spark when I reconnected it recently. wasn’t a faulty connector until I made it faulty.
1 Like