No more faulting after changing the settings as you described (slightly off, I used the auto wizard motor settings with -16A Regen) and also swapping sides. I can run it like this but I kind of want to know why it was being weird before.
Haven’t reflashed FW yet. The motors do seem to “pulse” higher and lower speeds while on bench.
I’m Gonna do another few km test run and report back.
Okay so it seems I had 2 issues, one was solved by flipping the VESC. 2nd issue was the damn mini remote reciever. I’m gonna douse it in hot glue I am done with flickery signal. I like it but I want to up the motor amps and up the Regen.
How high would you suggest going? -20A Regen still isn’t strong enough brakes for me.
All the math I can find says the formula would be 2r+✓3r which is the math I did but idk. I don’t have 3 18650’s on hand to check lmao.
It doesn’t sound right tho…
As long as you’re not coupled to a car or locomotive you shouldn’t burn anything up under normal esk8 use. Keep in mind that number is adjusting the high speed brakes, so if it’s low speed brakes that are too weak, lower the “Motor max brake” number instead.
No it’s brakes at top speed. I want the brake power to be a lot higher and a little more instant. I can brace my body for high speed braking but if I’m going 50-60kph on a bike path and amid runs out in front of me I need to be able to brake fast, just an example. I’m gonna change it to 30 hopefully that feels like the insane old settings I used to use. (-99A Brake and 90A battery X2)
Hello, I have a small issue regarding my board and unfortunately I don’t have a video showing it but when I give very little throttle (10-15%) around 20 ish mph the board starts to induce speed wobbles. When I punch on the throttle all the way up to 30 ish and keep the throttle at about 30 to 50 percent to maintain 30mph it’s still fine. It’s only around 10 to 15 percent throttle where it starts to give wobbles. I am using a flipshit vx2 with a Spintend UBOX V2 on originally beta (I think 74) 5.3 and had no issues with that firmware until now. I updated to the official 5.3 tonight and plan on testing tommorow but if anyone has other suggestions of what it could be please let me know.
Do you need to adjust the settings on both sides of a dual vesc? I’m using a stormcore and if I select the other side of the vesc in vesc tool, then my settings change back to what they were previously (which makes sense). Is changing the settings twice the correct way to do things or am I missing something?
Depending on the ESC there can be, but it tends to be a little flaky, still better to just do it twice. You can set up all your stuff on one side, save an XML of those settings, then upload that XML to the other one to save a bit of time.
Yeah that’s the plan running the lights using the P- port of the BMS. Is it needed to place the positive wire before the loopkey? Because I was thinking about placing it behind the loopkey, so it would’nt be always on (only when loopkey is inserted).
In case I would do it before the loopkey, could you use a ‘normal’ latching switch that way?