Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Ffff I literally saw this immediately after applying heat shrink. This is a hella sweet idea. I wish I’d just done this a few minutes ago.

Hot glue works fine too, but clear nail polish is surprisingly useful. I used some to secure the wires in place inside my girls lil 510 vape pen like 6 months ago and it’s still kickin.

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Yeah like @Kai mentioned, I prefer chunks of hot melt adhesive cut up and stuck in there, but the question specifically mentioned buying the bare minimum amount of stuff. Borrowing nail polish does that :wink:

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Its still baking but this time around it fits so well that it kinda plays into the wheel wells and lines up juuuuust right for a tunnel riser. Sweeeeet.

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20AWG will be fine for the converter, it will not draw much current at battery voltage.
One thing I can recommend for noncritical loads like USB, lights, heated seats, etc, is to run them from the P- port on your BMS: The one we normally bypass for the motors. This means the BMS can shut down the noncritical loads if the battery gets low. A separate switch is required in this case, which also means you can have lights/usb/etc even when the loopkey is removed.

The small red wire would probably be the easiest to splice into if you decided to go that route.

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this:

If your lights or accessories ever shut down while riding, consider that a stern warning from the BMS that you NEED to pull over and shut down, but a stern warning without cutting your brakes or throttle abruptly.

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I’m getting a bunch of errors in metr and my board seems to be receiving random remote signals, or at least it’s acting that way. Calibrated PPM multiple times already. Phases are not touching. I feel I’m getting “tug backs” whenever I use a lot of torque.


Both sides are the same motor and battery current settings

On bench when I apply full throttle, one motor stops while I still have throttle applied, after it reaches the maximum RPM.
Both motors seem to “stutter” which translates to a “tug back” feeling while moving.

Brand new VESC please advise. Using stock DV6+ 5.3 FW

Turn down all your current settings

Motor max 75A
Motor max brake -60A
Battery max 15A
Battery max regen -15A

Leave Absolute Maximum Current at the maximum it will allow.

Verify the stuttering is gone.

Now, slowly turn the motor maxes up until it doesn’t feel like it adds any more torque (at a very low speed), then turn it down a tiny bit from that.

Then turn up the battery currents.

Don’t just start blasting at nuclear power levels out of the gate.

Also, you are using test version firmware

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I had the settings similar to that at first when I first noticed the issue. I figured raising the current level would stop the overcurrent fault.

Old settings that still had the issue:
Motor Max 70A
Battery Max 60A
Max Regen -16A

Using FS 6384 with BNM1

Good to know I’m going to do a FW re-flash and set it all up again.

Do both ESCs fault, or just one?

Raise “Absolute Maximum Current” to acheive this goal, not any of the other currents. Raise that one as high as it will allow you to.

Just the one VESC. Oh man that scares me. I just got this one.

If it’s only one side, then swap the motor connections and note whether the same side faults, or the other side.

Awe shit I went and put myself in zap strap hell uno momemto por favor

No more faulting after changing the settings as you described (slightly off, I used the auto wizard motor settings with -16A Regen) and also swapping sides. I can run it like this but I kind of want to know why it was being weird before.

Haven’t reflashed FW yet. The motors do seem to “pulse” higher and lower speeds while on bench.

I’m Gonna do another few km test run and report back.

Anyone know off hand the thickness of diagonal double stacked 18650’s?

Multiply the thickness of diagonal double stacked 21700 by 6/7


:angry:

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18d=9r
9+sqrt9x3+9
18+sqrt27
23.2mm~
Call it 25 to cover glue/shrink/etc.

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Okay so it seems I had 2 issues, one was solved by flipping the VESC. 2nd issue was the damn mini remote reciever. I’m gonna douse it in hot glue I am done with flickery signal. I like it but I want to up the motor amps and up the Regen.

How high would you suggest going? -20A Regen still isn’t strong enough brakes for me.