LOL…c’est moi.
Here are some voltage vs mAh discharge plots but this is when “under load”, when being used. You can work out the percentages without too much effort but you will need to choose a discharge current level and cutoff voltage because the percentages change depending on how hard you are using the pack and when you stop discharging.
I do not have the graph for a cell that is at rest, not being discharged. Those voltages are very different.
Thank you,
calc based on that I have 12s5p with cutoff end 38.4V which is 3.2V per cell
should it be sth like that
i could interpolate values in N column (like that) (cause i type it by hand from graph) but it seems to be sort of right. Ill test it on board
| % | V |
|---|---|
| 100% | 4.15 |
| 90% | 4.07 |
| 80% | 4.00 |
| 70% | 3.90 |
| 60% | 3.82 |
| 50% | 3.73 |
| 40% | 3.65 |
| 30% | 3.60 |
| 20% | 3.48 |
| 10% | 3.33 |
| 0% | 3.20 |
This
Also anyone know a god site for 18s chargers
get a wate on AliExpress
Still struggling with this problem. Tried using the UART3 connection on my Stormcore and still has the same problem; everything works but Flipsky VX2 does not display board battery, km’s travelled, speed or amps.
I also tried to connect to my Stormcore through Freesk8 and got the message “Unable to read motor configuration”. Is there any known compatibility problems between freesk8 and Stormcore 60D+ or could something actually be going on with the esc? (brand new so could be an oob failure?). I’m not seeing any issues connecting through USB on the vesc tool
Any major drawback to having the vesc inside a top mounted pelican case for a mtb? (Besides soldering longer motor/sensor wires)
I love the compact nature of this design: WTB-🇺🇸 Stormcore 100D heatsink - #5 by Savage1
Not really besides the wiring
I don’t like running that giant bunch of wires back to the motors but that’s just personal preference
Got it. Thanks for the info!
Another quick one. Should I bother with a heat sink for my 60d? I don’t think you’re using one for you setup right?
I don’t have a 60D, I have a DV6 Pro, so I’m not super sure how hot the 60D gets
If you have budget and time for it, you can’t really make a mistake by integrating a heatsink
its always good to cool ur electronics, but its not a must. unless u r already hitting ur thermal limit early in ur ride, then u probably don’t need one, but it doesn’t hurt to have one.
when u ride faster and harder, then the heatsink will start to show its benefit
Longer phase wires are better (electrically) then longer battery wires.
Maybe not aesthetically.
So after I slept and let my parts dry surrounded by TP I rode to work. Seems only one motor is “working” but when I try to detect with metr both move but both give :bad detection result". There are no shorts that I can see on the phase wires, haven’t grabbed a DMM yet but about to. Everything looks visually fine but metr can’t detect motors or hall sensors. I think the VESC may be fucked. I can still ride it on a single motor basically sensorless for now. I’ll try a VESC swap once I get home. I hope I don’t need to do a motor swap.
What you can do is swap your phases to the known good side to rule out your motor btw.
But that does sound like the one side of your esc is at fault.
That’s the thing, both sides are acting up, and I feel like with 5.3 there are some issues using expert mode in metr so it would also be more reliable to hardwire to VESCTool before ruling the VESC out just yet
Why does the Trampa VESC MkV say it can’t do 63100 motors?
where?
they are dum, they might as well just include lines of code to detect when a mk5 is plugged in, then it will not let u choose large motor to do detection, let’s see how people would react to that.
This exactly how I just built my emtb. 12s4p in a center case with esc (MakerX DV6). Depends on your climate, riding style, and esc, but personally i was getting up to 20C increase in temps inside that enclosure over motor temps.
The downside of an all-in-one setup is all your electronics are creating heat in the same (probably airtight) enclosure. Which means you may be cooking your batteries and reducing their life span.
I ended up adding a @Savage1 heatsink (that one in your photo; same enclosure too) and immediately saw a huge drop in temps. I’ll never build an all-in-one enclosure without a heat sink again. If you don’t do it from the start, i would at least plan your layout and wiring so you can easily add if needed.
Before you change any motors or ESCs, swap which side is connected to which motor. And, take note if the one that doesn’t work switches sides or not.
