Don’t remember the exact version. It would probably be one of the two versions before the current one.
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This one’s for the vendors, I’m pretty much ready to set up shop for real, what platforms do you guys use for your web shops? Any pros and cons I should know about?
I would heavily prefer the ability to offer financing, I feel that would make sales come in a lot more frequently.
One of the biggest out there is Shopify
Woocommerce is another
You can build your site from a variety of different places. EditorX is good, Squarespace is good, there are others too tho
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Thanks! I feel like a confused old man when I try and do any serious computer stuff lol. Making stuff? Sure, no problem. Starting any kind of web page? Daunting.
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I’m having trouble making a change in VESC tool…
I installed a bigger battery, and most of the settings I want to change are accessible through the “Multi Settings” option:
After I make a change I can “Write to All VESCs”:
So for so good.
This setting however is accessible through the “regular” settings not the “Multi Settings”:
Instead of “Write to All VESCs” I only have “Write” and when I hit it, it only writes to the first VESC.
If I press that “CAN ->” button in the lower left, It detects “UNITY (LOCAL)” and “UNITY (70)” but if I try to select UNITY (70) the tool reboots and I get this:
Not sure what to do with this. Where is this pairing list and what is the UUID I should add to it? Is it 70?
Just built a battery and plugged in the BMS and charger, I’ve never used a smart Bluetooth fancy BMS before can someone help me figure out if I did this right?
I’ve got no collar pieces or nuts for this.
How do I get charging plug to stick in place?
What goop will hold this socket steady?
Why are circles so… Circle?
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Is that a GX16?
If it is, PM me your address I have washers and nuts and can put some in a stamped envelope
But either way, with or without a nut, I would also epoxy it from the inside only. But a nut is strongly preferred
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It’s a gx16 yeah but the part coming through to the inside of the enclosure is slightly tapered, I have plastic cable housing for it but it wont catch the threads. I also have some 16mm button nuts that won’t catch the threading either
Aww crap, I forgot you were in Canada. Things are not so simple LOL
I still have those pieces though but once you add international shipping, might as well hit up AliExpress or skip them altogether
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Hence why I’m asking about goop, Canadian Tire has many bondage goops available
Well I think anything you use will eventually come loose except epoxy.
Whether liquid epoxy or a kind of putty like milliput, either way, some sort of two part epoxy is what you want, and make sure it grabs the threads nice and well and the threads don’t have oil or grease on them.
Is there anything I can do to help the epoxy grab? I want to be able to have as many insertions and pulls without the socket coming loose as possible. Maybe like soldering some “hooks” onto the casing?
Also I have some dollar store 2-part epoxy immediately handy, is that too crappy?
I’m gonna have to disagree with Brian on this one. I do not partake in his permanent build ideology. What if it breaks, or you want to use that for another build? It’ll still be epoxied in, and that will be a bit of a pain. Hot glue the living shit out of it.
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I agree that I like everything to be modular, but having a charge port permanently paired to an enclosure (it unplugs internally with an XT60) isn’t so bad for me.
Best?
The best thing you can do to make it grab is to make sure the threads and the fiberglass enclosure are clean and even sand them lightly with a fine grit if needed.
And if you add milled glass fiber to your liquid epoxy mix, it will make it very strong, but will make the surface very bumpy and pointy.
West System 650 epoxy plus milled glass fiber, and do it in multiple thinner coats with each coat being applied 5 hours after the last, would give the absolute best results.
If you wait for a full cure then the blush on the epoxy can make a layer interface weakness. Applying the next layer before the layer under it is fully cured, allows the chemical bonds to cross the layer boundry well and act as a single cohesive piece. Read about epoxy blush because WS650 does that a lot but it’s good to use if you know about it.
Also put a fuse in there when you do all that, bury it in the epoxy with wires soldered to it, one of which goes to the charge port…
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All I have are glass fuses, might have to go get a plastic one. 20A okay? The BMS cuts off at 30A but it’s sticker says it’s a 20A BMS.
Glass is fine, even better to bury it then
Not sure if the rattling will pop the fuse though. But if it pops, just add a new one
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I recently had to remove a charge port that was epoxied into an enclosure, and I don’t ever want to deal with removing epoxy from threading that small again.
Hold on I have to disagree with Brian even harder on that. How are you going to change that fuse?!
Changing a fuse? It should never blow and if it does, just add another one.